We first visited Charleston, South Carolina when there was a direct flight from London
Sadly, thanks to COVID, it didn’t last long, and with travel to the States significantly down, it doesn’t look likely to return anytime soon. That’s a shame because, as a holiday destination, Charleston really ticks a lot of boxes. There’s fresh seafood, beautiful beaches, hikes, picturesque cobblestone streets, and MAN the houses… along with legendary BBQ, great weather, and excellent restaurants and bars. Speaking of food, here’s our hit list of where to eat and drink in the Holy City – a mass of recommendations.
Chubby Fish + sister bar Seahorse
Probably the most modern restaurant in Charleston, Chubby Fish takes no rezzies and has a massive queue every single day before opening (something that has the trad locals up in arms!). Chef James London brings experience from NYC and San Francisco, which shines through on the menu. While the seafood is all local, the flavours are anything but, with interesting combos that shouldn’t work but always do. The dishes change frequently but there are some staples, like the caviar sammich (always start with this buttery, bite-size bun), a long list of America’s finest oysters, and bone marrow with shrimp tempura that tends to stick around. The wine list is epic too — low-intervention bottles with a strong selection from across the States. If the queue is long you can swing by Seahorse, their new-ish bar next door, for a cocktail and some chips while you wait.
FIG
Having opened in 2003, FIG (which stands for Food is Good) is now a local institution, having kickstarted Charleston’s modern dining scene. The neighbourhood bistro is elevated by the interiors, service, and – of course – the food. Chef Mike Lata uses local ingredients and puts his own spin on classic Southern dishes: the signature dish is the chicken liver pâté, which comes with seasonal accompaniments, Dijon and a generous mound of brioche. The ingredients are obsessively sourced, mostly from nearby farms and waters, like Sheepshead fish and Steamboat Creek Oysters to Carolina Gold rice. Keep an eye out for the seasonal specials and count yourself lucky if you visit during softie (that’s soft-shell crab) season.
Lowland
When well-loved FIG chef Jason Stanhope left after 10 years to open Lowland, all eyes were on the restaurant. Stanhope has recently moved on, but Lowland is still going strong. Set in a beautiful 19th century house, the restaurant serves some classic, comfort Americana dishes, many with a Southern spin. Burger with cognac sauce, beef tartare with smoked trout tonnato, Carolina shrimp cocktail, apple hand pie with soft whipped cream and excellent martinis should help set the scene.
167 Raw Bar
This New England–style oyster bar, located in the heart of touristy downtown Charleston, is part of a small group of restaurants operating under the 167 name. As you’d expect, the restaurant offers a hefty selection of raw dishes from the seafood counter, including crudos, ceviches, and a standout signature tuna tataki — a block of tuna coated in a paper-thin tempura batter, flash fried so that it’s lightly cooked on the outside and raw within. Just add a crisp beer from one of the local Charleston breweries, and you’ve got yourself the perfect lunch.
Bowen’s Island Restaurant
This rustic restaurant is an absolute must-visit. Set on James Island, overlooking Folly Creek, Bowen’s Island serves a simple menu of Southern seafood dishes that will make you want to get your hands dirty. From crab cakes to shrimp, fish, and oysters — all served with classic sides — the food is unfussy and satisfying. The snack list is especially strong, with standouts like crunchy fried green tomatoes with hot honey, crab dip with chips, and the game-changing she-crab soup (don’t miss it if it’s on offer). Grab some horseradish cocktail sauce and a cold one, sit out on the terrace, watch the fishermen on the river, and just try to resist the urge to Google “houses for sale Charleston.” Speaking of desirable houses, nearby Folly Beach is well worth a visit, for the beach itself and the dreamy homes that line it, looking out to sea. A girl can dream.
Sullivan’s Fish Camp
A beloved spot given a fresh new life, Sullivan’s Fish Camp blends beach-town nostalgia with a polished, modern touch. Housed in the space that was once the iconic Sullivan’s Restaurant — a local favourite for decades — it was reimagined in 2022 by the team behind Basic Projects, keeping the spirit of the original while dialling up the design and flavour. Now under the direction of new chef, Jason Stanhope (formerly of FIG and Lowland), the food is better than ever. We loved the softie crab sandwich, the excellent French fries, and the shrimp fried rice made with Carolina Gold rice — naturally. Be sure to hit the nearby beach and nature walk before or after your meal. You’ll need it after these portions.
Republic Ice-Cream
With over 100 years of family history in the ice cream business, it’s safe to say Republic knows how to make a great frozen treat. Every batch is made from scratch, with flavours inspired by Southern specialties — from pecan pralines to giant floats made with local soda pops — and indulgent sundaes that hit all the right notes.
King BBQ
Charleston has no shortage of great BBQ, but there’s currently only one spot blending Chinese and American flavours. The result is an inventive menu featuring epic smoked meats paired with Asian-inspired ingredients— from the spices and marinades to the accompaniments. Think five-spice rotisserie duck served on a bed of numbing noodles, Chinese BBQ egg rolls, and house-made smoked sausages crafted daily. The dishes are big on both flavour and portion size. Thankfully, the fun drink list is there to help wash it all down.
Breweries
It’s well worth seeking out some of the independent craft breweries in the city. Our favourites were Palmetto Brewing Co., the state’s oldest brewer; Lo-Fi Brewing; Edmund’s Oast Brewing Co; and Low Tide Brewing — but there are quite a few more. Be sure to check opening times and events as they often host some interesting pop-ups.
Babas on Cannon
Come weekends, this little spot draws huge brunch crowds but visit outside those times and it’s super chill. The all-day café and bar offers standard brunch fare with an added baller section. Caviar sandwich for breakfast? You got it. After lunch, it’s cocktails and snacks, unless there’s a hipster food pop-up, like a ‘fancy hot dog’ party.
The Ordinary
Sister to FIG, The Ordinary is an impressive restaurant housed inside a beautifully restored 1927 bank building on King Street, featuring soaring 22-foot ceilings. The menu celebrates local and regional seafood, served alongside freshly shaken cocktails. Sit at the bar, grab a couple of crispy oyster sliders, and enjoy one of their signature martinis — a super savoury tipple made by steeping vermouth with crushed oyster shells, kombu, and mushrooms. Delightful.
Citrus Club
Our favourite rooftop in town, Citrus Club sits atop The Dewberry hotel. It’s adults-only (big tick from us) and evokes a holiday vibe, which is perfectly reflected in the food and drink menus. Pina Coladas and coconut shrimp will have you feeling like you’re on a beach in no time. It’s a great spot to catch a beat if you’ve been walking the same streets for a few days…
The Darling Oyster Bar
Housed in a historic 1920s building on Charleston’s bustling King Street, The Darling Oyster Bar is one of the best places to indulge in raw seafood towers brimming with oysters, mussels, shrimp, and crab claws—shucked and cracked fresh at the central raw bar—as well as other creative dishes like clam poutine and blue crab tagliatelle.
Second State Coffee
It’s still weirdly hard to get a decent coffee in the States, unless you go to a specialist and even then, the flat whites can sometimes be questionable. Second State Coffee nails it and if you’re lucky you might even find some of their baked goods left.
Welton’s Tiny Bakeshop
The best bakery in the city, this tiny, kitsch bakeshop creates amazing savoury and sweet baked goods, with items changing weekly and flavour combinations inspired by what’s seasonally available. Think hot honey croissants, ramp swirls, strawberry shortcake biscuits brimming with cream, and everything in between. Sure, the queues on weekends might be long, but let us tell you—it’s well worth the wait.
Sechey
This alcohol-free store sells a bunch of yassified drinks from some interesting new brands. But the real reason to come is for the THC cans which are ideal if you’re looking to really chill out. Our top tip for getting over jet lag too.
