With the long-serving and beloved East Dulwich institution, Franklins, closing earlier this year, it was a saddening blow for the South East scene; however, like any solid community, two locals have stepped in to breathe new life into the old girl under her original name, The Victory. Jamie Younger and his partner, Rema Waterhouse, the talents behind Peckham’s fan favourite, The Begging Bowl and formerly The Palmerston, alongside Executive Chef Seán Breen (Noble Rot), aim to build on the pubs longstanding legacy in the local area, with a menu with French bistro affectations, but rooted around seasonal British produce.
Eat This
All the snacks are a great place to start; for us, the smoked eel gilda – paired up with a crisp martini. Alongside the peri-peri chicken hearts skewered on a sprig of rosemary, grilled and glazed to perfection. Follow this with a super fresh dressed crab, peach and Datterini tomato starter, and a steaming plate of razor clams in sherry and chorizo – with bread and butter to mop up that liquor.
Drink This
This gastro pub is well and truly stocked to suit all you wants and needs. It’s a boozer at heart, so a great range of beers on tap, a wine list which covers old and new and keeps things interesting but approachable. You can’t go wrong with a Martini from their Nick & Nora list, but in this summer heatwave, nothing hits quite like a cold pint of Estrella Damm Lemon. And to finish? A glass of Crémant de Loire.
Why Go
With so many openings and closings of soulless franchises and concepts that nobody really asked for in the area, it’s refreshing to see a pub and restaurant which serviced its local area for 26 years be succeeded by its community and returned to its former glory. This, in itself, should be celebrated, along with Sean’s interesting and hearty menu, which takes pub grub to a whole new level.
Key Information
Address | 157 Lordship Lane, London SE22 8HX
For more information | victoryrestaurant-bar.co.uk
