There’s another new Indian-inspired pub in Islington
The Tamil Prince opened in Islington last year when an ex-Roti King duo, chef Prince Durairaj and Glen Leeson, took over and reinvented a Barnsbury pub. It was – and is – a total hit, so it’s no surprise that the team were quick to expand.
The Tamil Crown is the name of the second site and like the original, it’s doing food from the Tamil Nadu region of India, it’s inside a pub and it’s in Islington, this time on the other side of Upper Street, close to Angel. It’s another charming pub on a quiet backstreet – quiet because all the action seems to be happening inside. There’s a lively atmosphere in the downstairs bar, where you can also eat, but we went up to the smart upstairs dining room complete with a gorge checkerboard pattern floor and very, very low lighting. Incredibly flattering if you’re on a date but less helpful for things you don’t want to be in soft focus, like the menu – we could just about read it with the help of a candle but we spotted a fair few phone torches being whipped out.
The menu at The Tamil Crown, once you’ve been able to read it, is similar to the one that’s turned the OG into such a favourite, with the addition of some exclusive dishes. They include a moreish lime leaf-roasted chicken, heavily charred, well-spiced and laced with back notes of citrus alongside a pineapple chutney; rich beef masala on a spongy, crispy-bottomed uttapam with a punchy coconut chutney; and mango sambar, a sweet and tangy dal.
The regulars shouldn’t be overlooked though, especially the gloriously craggy onion bhajis, and the Chettinad lamb and Thanjavur chicken curries, both laced with curry leaves and whole chillies. And a word on the roti, it’s superlative, maybe the best in London, which is appropriate considering the founders’ Roti King backgrounds. Order one each, and then order another because you won’t want to leave a drop of sauce unmopped.
The Tamil Crown isn’t reinventing the wheel – the menu is pretty succinct and many of the dishes will be familiar to anyone who’s into Indian food – but the execution is what makes it special. And with an Indian-inspired roast (with masala chicken and lamb, potato and peas masala, coconut stir-fried cabbage, fried cauliflower, and mixed veg avial) on offer on Sundays, we can see a lot of repeat visits in our future.
16 Elia Street, London N1 8DE
thetamilcrown.com