The Lanesborough is a classic Central London five-star hotel, a grand white building facing Hyde Park with very traditional decor inside. This extends to the dining room – now under the moniker The Lanesborough Grill – which is decorated in an almost neo-classical fashion, with Greek friezes and Doric columns throughout the bright glass-roofed room. It’s probably not a restaurant you’d hit up with a bunch of mates but it is somewhere to come when you might be craving the comfort of classic cooking and all the old fashioned charm of five-star service. There’s even huge sofas at some of the tables if you can bag one of those – an uncomfortable wine bar with rickety old stools this is not.
In the recent transition to The Lanesborough Grill, the hotel has bought in Shay Cooper, a chef that has form in this area – he previously worked at The Goring, another iconic Central London hotel. The menu has been created to offer modern, crowd-pleasing dishes cooked with seasonal British produce, and there’s an excellent selection of English wines to go along with it too. We can definitely recommend asking for an all-English wine pairing for your dishes.
We kicked off with some beautiful Wye Valley asparagus, with a healthy grating of salty Spenwood sheep cheese and a rich chanterelle mushroom aioli; and fresh Orkney scallops that had been thinly sliced and served raw, ceviche-style, with tomatoes and toasted hazelnuts in a dressing of smoked rapeseed oil.
We narrowly passed up the epic looking beef Wellington for two in favour of trying more dishes, and went for the Cotswold white chicken, which had been stuffed with black garlic puree and served with cauliflower cheese puree and a roast chicken veloute. Another super seasonal spring ingredient, wild garlic, was the star of a brilliant creamy risotto, topped with puffed rice, morels, Brightwell Ash goat cheese, and broad beans. Don’t miss the side of hash browns either. There was just one dessert for us but it was a goodie – dark chocolate mousse, with pecan praline and a smooth cocoa nib ice cream.
The Lanesborough Grill, and Shay Cooper, have done a great job of merging a fresh, bright modern menu of British dishes with the more traditional aspects of the hotel’s style. Well worth checking out if you’re after a comforting, classic dinner in central.
Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA