What’s the vibe?
Even in the uncertain, risky world of restaurants, “a wine bar in Brooklyn co-owned by James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem” sounds like the kind of concept you’d bet your house on. And it’s a bet that’s certainly paid off for its headline owner, as The Four Horsemen is always packed to the rafters, with people either perched up at the small bar or at one the few tables. It’s got a great atmosphere and a cool minimal vibe with white walls, natural woods, and old wine bottle being the dominant features – it really wouldn’t look out of place on a backstreet of Paris (which we suspect is exactly what they were going for).
What to order?
Natural wines and small plates are the order of the day here, and although things do change around often, you can be sure to always find the warm house bread with cultured butter, plus a side of anchovies to kick things off while you decide. Over a glass of German sparkling resiling we also tucked in to salt cod fritters, plus a pretty special yellowfin tuna with yuzu kosho and smoked dulse (dish of the night), and buratta, n’duja, and mushrooms on toast – a little expensive at $18 but delicious none the less. For when you just want a few-snacks-with-wine kind of dinner, The Four Horsemen is a very good shout indeed.
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