The former set-menu spot has gone à la carte, and the new menu is a lot more fun
Tavern is a British bistro from the team behind Restaurant St Barts and Nest (RIP). Fun fact: we were the first to write about Nest when it opened in Hackney nearly 10 years ago, back when it was serving a £28 tasting menu. The space now leans country pub – though really the kind of polished pubs London’s been churning out lately – with white tablecloths, flickering candles, panelled walls and bric-a-brac-lined shelves. The menu is looser and more fun too: still rooted in British classics, but with playful, creative spins, plus a very solid drinks list.
Eat This
Produce comes from top British farmers, fishermen and growers, with a focus on whole-animal butchery and open-fire cooking. Start with the chunion puffs – bite-sized puff pastry parcels filled with cheese and onion cream – and smoked cod’s roe with giant pig skin crackers (a byproduct of the in-house butchery). Then there’s their standout sausage made with pork and cuttlefish, served with squid ink mustard, which is unmissable.
A Cornish crab and Nutbourne tomato salad is fresh and light, while asparagus with brown butter hollandaise and cured egg yolk is perfectly cooked. The tandoori quail, served in a rich curry sauce, is another highlight, especially alongside a bowl of chips that land somewhere near Five Guys fries (complementary).
For dessert, go light with the miso brown butter cake, a perfect two-bite pud, or, if you’ve got the room, the slab of black koji custard tart with milk ice cream.
Drink This
The drinks follow the same seasonal, slightly playful approach: think carrot gimlets and pickleback martinis, alongside a strong wine list. There are a couple of English options by the glass too – we’re fans of Ben Adams’ wines so were happy to see the chilled red on offer.
Why Go
It’s an all-rounder: great food, great drinks, great room, great service. And British food is back in fashion, haven’t you heard?
Key Information
Address | 374-378 Old St, London EC1V 9LT
For more information | tavernlondon.co.uk
