You know a trip has worked its magic when you’re Googling citizenship requirements before the flight home
Or when the hotel concierge slips you a room key to take home as a way of saying “keep this…you’ll be back.” The destination in question? St. Moritz, Switzerland – my new spiritual homeland.
If you’re picturing snowy peaks, chic ski gear and luxury winter retreats, you’re half right. The town is famously synonymous with prestige winter sports and alpine glamour. But considering I can’t so much as ice skate, I leapt at the chance to visit during the final weekend of June, eager to see what St. Moritz had to offer in the summertime. Turns out, plenty!
St. Moritz first made its name as a summer destination, something that becomes obvious as soon as you arrive. As snow and ice give way to warmer days, what can only be described as a Euro Shangri-la emerges to the surface.
Offering the perfect balance of nature, wellness, indulgence and sunshine, St. Moritz might just rival St. Tropez as the ultimate summer destination.
Here’s how to do Swiss summer, St. Moritz style.
TRAVEL
It’s just a 90-minute flight from London to Zurich, but reaching St. Moritz still requires another three hours by car or train – a stretch of travel time that, in most cases, would dampen any attempt at slipping into holiday mode right away. On this occasion however, an exception can be made. While long, the journey is nothing short of majestic – arguably not long enough! From Zürich HB, we hopped on the SBB to St. Moritz, switching at Chur.
It’s a completely surreal way to travel. You’ll wind through towns and villages, over viaducts and lakes, past alps and valleys, all while draining your phone battery as you try (and fail) to capture everything. Rest assured, the retreat begins the moment you board – so sit back, plug in your earphones and let Switzerland’s spellbinding countryside carry you away.
TIP: If you can, spring for first class – it’s worth it for the space and comfort. Travel by day too, the views are the real luxury.
Point-to-point tickets start at £40 one-way; Swiss Travel Passes start at £229 for three days. Find out more at travelswitzerland.com.
STAY
There is no shortage of luxury hotels in St. Moritz, but unlike its peers, Grace La Margna is open all year around making it the pick for a summer getaway.
“Wes Anderson-esque” often feels like a lazy shorthand but in the case of Grace, it’s perfectly apt. In all its grandeur, Grace hotel is situated on a hill that overlooks Lake St. Moritz and the main rail station, commanding your attention before you’ve even checked in. The staff will happily offer you a lift but a short walk up the slope will bring the hotel into frame one step at a time.
The Art Nouveau architecture roots the building in its early 20th-century Engadin origins, while the red-shuttered windows of the La Margnia wing add a touch of charm, making it all too easy to romanticise the Swiss setting. Step inside, and the grandeur gives way to a cosy, contemporary atmosphere. The Living Room, in particular, feels like a homely communal space – perfect for socialising or simply taking in the lake and mountain views in comfort.
Bedrooms
The cosy vibe continues in the rooms, where playful touches – like umbrellas inscribed with “Darling, for you the sunshine is always shining” and slippers reading “Good slippers take you to GRACEful places”- add personality.
Inside, there’s everything you’d expect of a 5* hotel…and then some. You’ll find a kingside bed, Italian bathroom robes, a Sjöstrand coffee maker, a Dyson hair dryer, bluetooth speaker and large TV. Room service is handled through a tablet which, best of all, features a dedicated Pillow Menu. From scented and soft to firm, memory foam or classic duck feather, you can choose exactly the pillow you’d like delivered to your room.
Spa + Treatments
The lower floor houses a spa where even familiar treatments feel elevated. ‘Emotional showers’ – with light, steam, mist and jets – add a fresh wellness twist, while the whirlpool, sauna, steam baths and gym cover the basics. Over in the treatment rooms, you can book in sessions for massages, manicures, facials and even body sculpting. I stuck to a deep tissue massage, which melted away every trace of tension after a day of adventure.
TIP: The two hotel wings are La Margna (the historic wing) and Grace (its contemporary extension). Don’t fret too hard about which side to stay in. Instead, prioritise securing a lake-facing room – it’ll make all the difference!
Room rates start from £550 per night.
GET OUT AND ABOUT
On foot
At some point, we’ve all wandered out of a hotel without a plan, meandered aimlessly until hunger struck, then picked the nearest restaurant in sight for fear of collapsing. Save yourself the literal headache and solicit the help of a tour guide, which should be easy enough to arrange via your hotel concierge.
A lovely lady named Suzie guided us from the lake, up through the St. Moritz Design Gallery and into the town – steeped in history and full of hidden gems tucked around every corner.
I wasn’t too surprised to learn that St. Moritz first thrived as a summer retreat, only reinventing itself around 1860 when the owner of the Kulm Hotel bet his British guests they’d enjoy it just as much in winter, promising them a free stay if they didn’t. Much as I would have, they accepted and in doing so, uncovered the snowy wonderland we now associate with St. Moritz and sparked the tradition of winter and ski holidays.
With this considered, it’s a relief that the town is far from dull or dormant in the summer months. Luxury is never far away as designer boutiques line the streets. The real gem is in the main square, where you’ll find a gorgeous summer market on the last weekends of June, August and September. Graze on the local cheeses, treat yourself to a cocktail, dance to the sounds of live music and browse everything from handmade jewellery to statement homeware. It’s part shopping, part sightseeing…and part financial sabotage but that’s Switzerland for you.
On wheels
By far, the best way to get around and explore sunny St. Moritz is on an E-bike. For a town known for world-class motor events, such as the British Classic Car Meeting in July and Passione Engadina in August, the roads were pleasantly quiet.
St. Moritz is small, so in next to no-time you’ll encounter bendy backroads, dirt paths, woodland glades and depending on direction, a fair bit of wildlife.
Don’t be concerned about the terrain or lack of practice though. After a minute or two, it begins to feel intuitive and before you know it you’re cranking it up to turbo and enjoying the warm, fresh alpine winds on your face.
Be very intentional about stopping to muse along the way. The further out you venture, the more you’ll come across neighbouring rivers and villages, each more peaceful than the last.
TIPS: Carry sunscreen and a bottle of water to sip on between huffs and puffs. Also, plan your bike excursion towards the end of the trip. You’ll feel better for having got yourself moving if you’ve spent the entire trip consuming cheese and ice cream.
By rail
A day trip to Morteratsch is an absolute must and it only takes around 25 mins to get there by train.
Once you arrive, it’s a short walk to Alp-Schaukaserei Morteratsch (essentially behind the station) – a restaurant and cheese house that only opens its doors for the summer.
As the region’s largest supplier of cheese, this open-air gem is the perfect brunch spot for cheese tasting, charcuterie, fondue, regional wines and other delights.
Food and drinks are served from a quaint, barn-like hut and inside, live demonstrations of its cheese making process take place twice a day (yes, they let you try some and even hand out cups of milk whey to try). On the grounds, surrounding the picnic benches, you’ll also find milk cows, goats and a rabbit enclosure, adding an enchanted, fairytale quirk to the experience.
This spot makes for a gorgeous mountain-side lunch or brunch so be sure to head there early enough to enjoy the food and surrounding area.
TIP: At Alp-Schaukaserei, order a bowl of barley soup. It’s delicious and light enough to be enjoyed, even in the heat.
ANOTHER TIP: Just outside the compound, and across the station carpark, there’s a footbridge that arches over the Cascada da Bernina waterfall where you can access great views of the Mosteratch Glaciers. If you’re up for it, follow the glacier trail and unlock all the best views of the falls. Or, if you’re really up for it, hike up to the glacier.
GO FOR A DIP
Who needs a beach when there’s a mountain-side lake? With the lakes frozen solid in winter, now’s the time to dive in while the climate allows. Lej da Staz is a peaceful spot for wild swimming, picnics, BBQ’s and soaking up the sun. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks and lush forest, it’s the perfect place to unwind – just pack a swimsuit, a good book and some hours for yourself.
The lake also has kiosks, a café and a small restaurant with outdoor seating, so even if you forget food, you’re covered.
TIP: If you get there early, the lake is quiet enough to enjoy to yourself. And if you did want a BBQ, there are various fire pit and grill stations dotted around the lake which are completely free for public use.
SET SAIL
From ice-skating and snow polo to the International Concours of Elegance, Lake St. Moritz hosts some of the world’s most exclusive winter sports and entertainment events. As the focal point of almost every attraction in town, it’s no wonder why visitors gravitate towards the lake. My excuse? To go sailing of course.
Just under an hour on the water offers a fresh perspective on the landscape and a rare sense of serenity thanks to the lake’s piercing blue waters. That is, until competitive boat racing kicks in – still a mystery in terms of rules but entertaining to watch all the same.
TIP: If sailing isn’t your thing but you still want a reason to be out by the waters, check out Festival Da Jazz, a summer music festival that happens annually across several sites in St. Moritz, including the lovely Lej da Staz lake.
Convinced yet? You should be. When you’re next on the search for your summer escape, try looking past white sands and seaside resorts and into the mountains instead – you’ll be surprised at what an alpine summer has to offer and what even a short stay in St. Moritz can do for the mind, body and soul.
