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is a new pop-up taking up residency at Platform 1 wine bar in East Dulwich for the next four months. The two-man team is made up of Ben Marks in the kitchen and Matt Emmerson at front of house, who between them have worked at NOMA, The Square and Polpetto. Their experience shows and we were very impressed with everything at Perilla, from the food to the beautifully printed menus that feature hand illustrated line drawings of flowers. The influence of Michelin-starred kitchens is clear to see in the delicate presentation of the dishes such as our favourite of the night, a rich duck egg with mussels and lovage. Other highlights were chicken wings stuffed with mushrooms and encased in crisp chicken skin; pot roast cauliflower with goats curd and lardo; and poached pears with soft herbs and frozen crème fraiche. Make sure you save room for a slice of warm oozing Vacherin Mont D’or if it’s on offer too!

The food may be influenced by fine dining but its great to be able to enjoy it in the relaxed setting of Platform 1 – this is ‘fine dining without the fuss’ as Ben and Matt call it and it’s a formula that works.

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There are tons of pop-ups, residencies and supperclubs in London these days, but very few stand out. Perilla is definitely a cut above, however, and we have a feeling you’ll be seeing a lot more from them in the future.

Platform 1, 71 Lordship Lane, East Dulwich, London, SE22 8EP