REVIEW: MORGAN M
MorganM located in the heart of Clerkenwell is the newish restaurant from well respected chef Morgan Meunier and his second London venture. The restaurant offers fine dining french cusine in a fairly relaxed environment. There are three ways to eat here; a la carte, the tasting menu or the tapas style dishes in the lesser formal Kitchen Gallery below, named because of it’s view into the kitchen.
We stuck with a’la carte and after the pre-starter of chesnut cream soup we sampled the Cream of ‘Mojette’ Beans, Lemon Confit and Pesto which was a creamy, light broth with a rainbow of delicate flavours. Crayfish and Lobster Cannelloni with Tarragon, Jerusalem Artichoke Soubise and Shellfish Capuccino was a great dish, crammed with juicy seafood and full of fishy flavour.
Pave of Halibut with Wild Mushroom Tempura, Celeriac Purée, Fondu of Leeks with Salsify, Morel and Vin Jaune Sauce was another well thought out dish; flaky, soft fish with the mushroom tempura providing a strong flavour which complemented the thick, creamy sauce. Roasted Pyrenean Milk Lamb, Garlic Soubise, Pomme Poivre, Courgette Julienne, Rosemary and Balsamic Jus consisted of thin, tender pieces of lamb arranged perfectly on a plate, we just wished there had been a little more of the meat.
After a pre-dessert of Vanilla Rice Pudding and Orange Tuile we were too full for two desserts so shared the All about Chocolate with Banana, Ice Cream, Mousse, Milkshake and Roasted Banana. The dessert looked almost too pretty to eat – almost – three delicate puds each different from the other but all equally as appealing.
If you’re looking for gourmet french fayre with attention to every detail and first class service Morgan M hits all the right notes. We’d recommend the tasting menu which works out great value at £50 for six courses or an additional £30 with wines to match.
50 Long Lane, EC1A