REVIEW: LONDON MESS X DISSENTING ACADEMY

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Mess is the new dining experience which combines food and art with a supper club type experience at The Dissenting Academy. We popped down to check out the new venture from chef Jim Thomlison and can report back, it’s pretty bloody good!

We started with the crispy Cod cheeks in beer batter, smoked scallop, monksbeard, flowers, peashoots and pea puree. That’s pea puree served in a tube so you get to play chef and decorate your own plate. Another starter of glazed pork neck, purple kale, glaze, white beets, shaved fennel, purslane and gochujang mayo came in a huge tray and was full of flavour.

Then came the mains, tender joints of mutton served on a huge spears and carved at the table, a la medieval banquet style and a huge, soft whole baked fish with wild asparagus, morels, wild garlic and beure blanc.

The piece de resistance followed, the work of art that was the dessert. Prosecco and strawberry jelly, rhubarb, crumble, set custard, brownie and ewes yoghurt created right in front of our eyes, a huge board of sweet treats which looked every bit as good as it tasted.

If this is what mixing food with art does we’re in.

Dissenting Academy, 92 Mildmay Park, N1 4PR
www.facebook.com/dissentingacademy

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