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of people have been wondering what chef Matthew Young would get up to after Mayfields closed and now he’s back with Ellory, which he’s opened with sommelier Jack Lewens who was previously at River Cafe. Ellory is on the ground floor of Netil House, round the corner from Broadway Market. It’s a nice light space, with modern minimal design and a small open kitchen at the back. The menu has been designed so that you can pop in for a plate or two and a glass of wine or go for the 5 course menu at £38.

We went for the full five courses of course and anyone that ate at Mayfields will recognise the pared-back style – raw scallop, chestnut and Jerusalem artichoke; calcot, goat curd and trout roe; brill, black trompette mushrooms and spinach; and mallard with radicchio and quince. Despite the few ingredients all were big on flavour and we especially loved the brill dish. Wine pairings and service were spot on too.

Netil House, 1 Westgate Street, London, E8 3RL