REVIEW: DIRTY BONES

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Bones has a dirty little secret. The new Kensington establishment might seem like another American food joint serving hot dogs and fried chicken but creep down into their dimly lit basement bar and restaurant and you’ll find that the food is in fact thoughtful, inventive and delish.

Former Fat Duck Experimental Kitchen chef Ross Clarke is at the helm and he’s got some new tricks for the old dog. Take the Asian Dog, made of kimchee puree in a brioche bun, it packs a punch thanks to unexpected toppings like wasabi mayonnaise, crispy seaweed and sesame seeds. Or the Burger Dog which is made from 30-day aged bavette and goes the extra mile with ingredients such as ‘beer cheese’ which has been fermented overnight with Marmite.

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Even their barbecue sauce is made with love (if love is in fact marshmallows, which we now know it is) due to the high gelatin content making for an extra sticky texture. Certain sides are stars in their own right; the mac and cheese is crunchy on top and gooey underneath while the glazed & charred sweetcorn is buttery and moreish and frankly impossible to share.

The cocktail list is equally considered but with a playful edge – The Mutt’s Nuts is a concoction of woodfood reserve, maple sryup. Angostura bitters and lemon and apple juices and our personal favourite.

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So while they might claim themselves to be dirty, we know better. The quality is really what sets this place apart and after a Dirty Bone-ing, we can promise you’ll be satisfied.

20 Kensington Church St, Kensington, London W8 4EP
www.dirty-bones.com