There’s no denying it, the demand for fine dining, white tablecloths and polished cutlery has decreased in recent years, with diners preferring more relaxed settings regardless of the food served. But, every now and then sometimes a bit of old school classic service and surrounds are called for because nothing says celebration like a drinks trolley – we can tell you.

French restaurant Celeste is located in the grand dining room of the five-star hotel, The Lanesborough, the same that housed Apsleys before the hotel closed in 2013 for a 18 month refurbishment. Headed up by Florian Favario, former Head Chef of Le Bristol’s three-Michelin starred restaurant Epicure in Paris, the fine dining menu features modern, innovative dishes that are cleverly created to provide theatre, look beautiful and taste incredible.

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The menu switches up with the season and even before we’d ordered we were served bite size snacks of lamb tacos with spiced popcorn garnish and their take on fish and chips, that’s a fish tail and potato circle. We followed with the avocado starter, a plate of grilled avocado, spiced guacamole and marinated yellowfin tuna and a main of native blue lobster with saffron rice, chorizo, mussels and lobster jus.

Desserts were the bomb, literally, a cherry candyfloss bomb filled with almond mousse, fresh cherries and sorbet and the Guanaja chocolate caramelised cashew nut praline, chocolate mousse and roasted coffee bean ice cream. Wines were perfectly matched, each dish was on point and the service was tres magnifique. Oui Oui Celeste, you’re simply the best.

The Lanesborough Hotel, Hyde Park Corner, London, SW1X 7TA