We’re big winos and love nothing more than discovering something new, whether it’s from a tiny producer, an unusual grape or a fresh take on a classic
Lately, we’ve noticed dry Tokaji popping up on wine lists at spots like Humo and Skof – and it’s delicious. Although Hungary’s Tokaj region is renowned for its incredible sweet wines, dry Tokaji has been produced there for at least as long as the sweet wines; it’s just not as well known. We were curious as to why dry Tokaji seemed to be popping up more regularly and it turns out there’s been a dramatic shift in Tokaj over the past few years. Whereas the region used to be dominated by the sweet style, dry wines now account for around 70% of the region’s production. There are a few theories behind the shift from sweet to dry Tokaji.
One major factor is climate change—sweet Tokaji depends on grapes affected by noble rot, but if the conditions aren’t right and the grapes spoil before developing the desired rot, winemakers risk losing their entire production. By focusing on dry Tokaji, they gain more control over the process while still showcasing the region’s incredible terroir. Similarly people’s palates are changing. As we’ve seen with the trend of savoury cocktails, the global demand for crisp, terroir-driven white wines is on the up.
25-year-old Max Lawrence, Head Sommelier at Manchester’s Skof, already has an impressive depth of wine knowledge and he’s seen a few more interesting wines weaving their way onto approachable wine merchants’ lists and supermarket shelves. In his view, the next standout bottle for those looking to impress at a dinner party is likely to be dry Tokaji.
These zippy, easy-drinking, mineral-driven whites—made from Hungary’s native Furmint and Hárslevelű grapes—strike the perfect balance between crowd-pleasing and intriguing. Plus, they offer an excellent (and often more affordable) alternative to Chablis. We asked him to recommend five bottles that you can find online and enjoy at home. Here goes…
Szepsy Urban 73
The Szepsy family has been making Tokaj wines since the 1500s, with 18th-generation Istvàn Szepsy considered one of Hungary’s top winemakers. Urban 73 is a dry Furmint from a single vineyard, with floral aromas, fresh peach, nectar, and a flinty touch.
Royal Tokaji
Royal Tokaji, co-founded by wine writer Hugh Johnson, is a gold standard in Hungarian wine. Made from 100% Furmint, it offers apple, pear, honey, and blossom aromas, with rich apricot and peach flavours.
Kikelet Dry Furmint
The husband-and-wife team at Kikelet Winery is dedicated to showcasing Tokaj’s unique terroir, and this wine embodies their passion for quality and craftsmanship. The nose hints at candied fruits and candy floss, while five months of yeast ageing adds a creamy texture.
Dobogó Tokaji Furmint
The Dobogó vineyards in Tokaj’s volcanic heartland, around Mád, feature Furmint from prime sites like Betsek, St. Tamás, and Úrágya. Hand-harvested and carefully selected, the wine is fermented and aged for 10 months in 300-litre Hungarian oak barrels.
Szent Tamás Mád Tokaji
Szent Tamás Winery, founded by István Szepsy Jr., focuses on reviving Tokaj’s Mád Crus using ancient volcanic vineyards. They craft high-quality, terroir-driven wines, blending tradition with innovation.
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