The restaurant has opened on the first floor above the revamped Knave of Clubs
In March, James Dye (co-owner of Bambi and The Camberwell Arms), Benjy Leibowitz and Patrick Powell brought historic Shoreditch pub the Knave of Clubs back to life – the building on Club Row was established as a pub in 1880 before becoming a variety of restaurants, including Les Trois Garçons. Opening the hottest pub in east London was clearly not enough for the trio as they’ve also opened an entirely separate restaurant, One Club Row, one floor above.
While the downstairs is a homage to British pub culture, One Club Row is the team’s tribute to New York, drawing on Benjy’s time spent working in the city’s restaurants. The NYC-style awning (surrounded by the graffiti of Shoreditch) is a contender for the most papped entrance way of 2025, and the rest of the space is a real looker too. The 19th century cornicing and fireplace have been restored, the walls and wooden floor have been stripped, there’s bold modern art by London artist Joy Yamusangie hanging around the room, and there are white tablecloths and tall candles on the tables.
Eat This
Culinary Director Patrick Powell and Head Chef Attila Gellen have created a menu of modern classics. The pickled jalapeno gougères (cheesy with a nice bite from the chilli) and lobster & ham croquettes (rich, gooey and loaded with lobster) set the tone – this is a restaurant where you come to indulge. Even the veggie dishes, like the barbecued asparagus, served with a hefty dollop of labneh and hazelnut brown butter, are rich.
The steak tartare is well made; the pickles running through give it hamburger vibes and it’s served with little beef dripping toasts. There is an actual burger on the menu if you want more (and you will). The One Club Row cheeseburger is a proper patty – thick, juicy, medium rare and intensely savoury – and it’s served with an excellent pepper sauce on the side. If you’re over smashburgers, this is the one for you.
The pork schnitzel has been getting a lot of love on socials and rightly so – not only is it massive, it comes with a rich mustard sauce underneath and generous blobs of gorgonzola on top.
Just as the cheeseburger au poivre shuns the trend for thin smashed patties, the New York-style cheesecake offers relief from the sea of burnt Basque cheesecakes in the city. There could have been more of the biscuit base than just a delicate sliver but the combo of creamy vanilla filling and sweet strawberries can’t be beaten.
Drink This
If pints are the calling card downstairs, up here it’s martinis. There are four types, including an olive oil one and the signature Club Row Martini (made with Tanqueray 10, Punt e Mes, Dolin Bianco, Maraschino liqueur and bitters), on the menu. They’re cold and stiff, but not so potent as to knock you out before the food arrives. Not a martini drinker? There are other classic cocktails on the list alongside a selection of old-world wines. And you only have to go down a flight of stairs and round the corner to get a drink for the road.
Why Go
The cold martinis and classic dishes are reason enough to go to One Club Row but the hospitality tops it all off. The restaurant is run by people who know how to work a room; the service is excellent, there’s a house pianist playing every weekend (and there are monthly late shows too) and there are spaces left for walk-ins at the bar, so the space is always buzzing.
Key Information
Address | 1 Club Row, London E1 6JX
For more information | oneclubrow.com