The Pachamama group’s move to the Med continues
After bringing us Zephyr in Notting Hill in 2022 and then flipping Chicama in Chelsea into Greek restaurant Bottarga, what was Pachamama in Marylebone has now been turned into Italian spot Nina. And, like Bottarga, it’s fast become one of the hottest spots in town, with its tuna and melon dish appearing on FYPs across London.
The basement restaurant is certainly a vibe. The plaster walls, leopard print draping, white tablecloths, long mirrored bar, low lighting and tall candles combine to create a space that looks cool but doesn’t feel try hard.
Eat This
It’s a very similar menu layout to Bottarga, except it’s Italian dishes, rather than Greek ones, that have been given a gentle modern twist.
Begin, as all good Italian meals should, with the focaccia, which is studded with semi-dried tomatoes and served with parmesan butter as well as olive oil for double lubrication. Breadsticks are given a bougie upgrade, with buttery slices of cured wagyu to be wrapped around crystal grissini. The taleggio arancini, laden with cheese, truffle and confit garlic mayo, are not to be missed either.
The Pachamama group does raw and crudo dishes so well, no doubt thanks to years of serving ceviche. The bluefin tuna e melone has the aesthetics down but the yellowtail is the real winner, with stracciatella adding a creaminess rather than cheesiness and hidden slices of jalapeno spiking it up. The big bowl of heirloom tomato and Taggiasche olives provides another burst of freshness.
Unless you’re in a big group, there’ll be some hard choices to make when it comes to the pastas and the mains. The spaghetti with Nina’s tomato sauce and a blanket of stracciatella has been getting lots of hype but we loved the duck ragu bianco with paccheri – rich, comforting and a nice alternative to a beef sauce (though there is a beef shin ragu on the menu too).
Another dish that’s been getting a lot of love is the chicken milanese and it’s easy to see why. It’s a whopping great golden piece of perfectly fried chicken, served with a hefty scoop of that parmesan butter. If you’ve gone bread heavy at the start, a veg, like the grilled cabbage with hot honey and whipped goat’s cheese, is all you need with it.
When we see a tiramisu on the menu, it’s getting ordered. Nina’s version is very generous, both in terms of the booze level and the portion size – it’s £15 but it was more than enough for two with plenty left to take home.
Drink This
There’s a largely Italian wine list at Nina but you won’t want to skip the cocktails, all of which are named after cigarettes. If you’re watching the booze, there are a handful of tini serves and fruit-forward mocktails. Otherwise both spritzes, the Malboro (aperitivo, prosecco and cherry) and the Golden Virginia (aperitivo, prosecco and kumquat) are delightful.
Why Go
Nina does an elevated take on recognisable and beloved Italian dishes, and there’s nothing here that’s trying to be too clever or too challenging, just tasty. The atmosphere is on point too – it would be super fun for a big group dinner but it’s a great date spot too, if you can get a table that is!
Key Information
Address | 18 Thayer St, London W1U 3JY
For more information | nina.london