Neighbourhoods
Chelsea & Fulham
Once a bohemian hangout for models and musicians in the Swinging Sixties, before punk, Vivienne Westwood and Malcom McLaren hit the King’s Road, Chelsea and neighbouring Fulham (slightly less posh but still extremely posh) is now most famous for a certain reality show. Unless you’re a gardener, then you probably associate this area with the Chelsea Flower Show – it has been going much longer and the Queen likes it so that’s fair.
Chelsea is a playground for the rich, with expensive properties, expensive shops, and expensive bars and restaurants. If you want a slap-up meal (and you’re prepared to empty your wallet for it) there are plenty of places that would oblige, from London dining institutions like Bibendum to newer-but-no-less-high-end kids on the block like Dinings SW3. The neighbourhood is also a place to indulge in world-class culture thanks to residents like the Saatchi Gallery and the Royal Court Theatre, and is home to a real London gem in the shape of the Chelsea Physic Garden – hey another one for all the green-fingered folk to enjoy!
BOTTARGA
First came Zephyr in Notting Hill in 2022 and two years later, Bottarga has landed in Chelsea, taking over the spot where the group’s seafood-focused Chicama. The place looks much the same – there’s still an open kitchen and marble counter running down the length of the L-shaped room – though some fun myth-themed artwork on the walls gives some clues to its new Greek identity – and it’s seriously vibey. Like Zephyr, the Bottarga menu is Greek-inspired, drawing particular influence from the Aegean Islands, but it’s been billed as “younger and more casual’ than its Notting Hill big sis. Chef Tzoulio Loulai is leading the kitchen, with some input from Pachamama’s original head chef Adam Rawson, and he’s made use of many Greek ingredients (including olive produced by his father, Amfissa olives and olive oil rusks from Kythira). Don’t miss the smoked aubergine, black garlic aioli and courgette tempura; calamari with a zingy chilli jam mayo; and saganaki bites coated in thyme honey and chilli. There are lots of lovely things off the grill, including the lamb belly, laden with oregano-heavy Greek Easter seasoning and charred, crispy fat. Add on some burnt butter-bathed confit potatoes with garlic aioli and a big bowl of Greek salad with barrel-aged feta, capers and rusks, and you’ve got all the Greek essentials – meat, potatoes, salad – covered.
JOSEPHINE BOUCHON
With a couple of notable exceptions, Fulham isn’t exactly bursting with great restaurants; so the arrival of Claude Bosi’s new place Josephine – which would be big news in any residential London neighbourhood – feels like an especially big dea. Inspired by Claude’s hometown of Lyon, Josephine is a gorgeous, classic French bistro, decked out with vintage prints, thick red velvet curtains, antique mirrors and candlelit marble tables. Named after Claude’s grandmother, the menu is inspired by the dishes that Josephine would cook for him when growing up, so you can expect traditional hearty French fare at every turn – onion soup, frog’s legs, terrine, and poireaux vinaigrette are just a few of the starters on offer for example. And you can follow those with the likes of chicken and mushroom vol au vent, sweetbreads with morel mushroom sauce, and whole rotisserie-cooked chicken with salad, a rich gravy, and potatoes. If you love big sharing puds then you’re in luck too as Josephine does rice pudding with caramelised apple and a chocolate mousse. All wines are from Rhone Valley, including Josephine’s own label wine, available in red, white and rosé, served in Bouchon-style metre wine, where the bottle is left on the table for guests to help themselves. At the end of the meal, the wine is measured with Josephine’s ruler and you pay only for what you’ve drunk – assuming you haven’t just nailed the whole bottle of course.
Rohit Ghai, who previously worked at Gymkhana and won a Michelin star at Jamavar, has gone out on his own with Kutir in Chelsea. It’s taken over the townhouse building that was previously home to Vineet Bhatia, the restaurant that famously won a Michelin star only to close a week later. As Kutir, the restaurant takes inspiration from the royal hunting traditions of the Indian countryside, so it’s big on seasonal ingredients like game and seafood. There’s an a la carte menu and a few good value set menus too so there’s plenty of ways to play it depending on time and budget. The lamb tandoori chops and the nargisi kofta – an egg in an amazing spicy sauce served with paratha bread and bone marrow – are standouts, as are the deep fried prawns with coconut and roscoff onion, and the guinea fowl biryani, served with homemade raita and pickles. The cocktail list, created by co-founder Abhi Sangwan, matches the menu well by using wild and natural Indian ingredients.
Caravan has gone west for the first time and opened a restaurant in Duke of York Square. However, it’s not just another Caravan, though the travelling link is still there. This one is Vardo, named after the Romani wagon of the 1800s, and it’s taken over a three-storey cylindrical stone and glass pavilion in the square. It’s actually a very cool building; all gentle curves and muted tones inside and the glass wall is fully retractable. Like Caravan, the menu at Vardo draws influences from across the globe with a focus on low and slow cooking techniques. If you’ve been to Caravan before then there’s a lot here you’ll recognise including the jalapeno cornbread with chipotle butter and lime, and the jamon and San Simon croquettes with saffron aioli. There are Asian-inspired grain bowls and European flavours on the pizzas, and the vegetable section of the menu is strong as well as varied, with the likes of slow-roasted carrots with brined mustard greens and ajo blanco and the roasted jerusalem artichokes with green tahini on there.
The Gladwin Brothers, the farmer, chef and restaurateur sibling trio and the pioneers behind popular sustainable spots The Shed, Rabbit, Sussex and The Black Lamb, have now opened The Pig’s Ear in Chelsea. They’ve taken over the pub that was previously the Chelsea Pig, a spot with sentimental value as it was one of their old haunts. As The Pig’s Ear, the pub is the perfect spot for locals to enjoy a selection of ‘local and wild’ dishes alongside a range of real ales, cocktails and fine wines, including some Nutbourne wines from their own vineyard. On Sundays, they’re offering up a classic roast, using meat from the family farm. The menu changes daily depending on what’s grown locally or is in season but there’s always a new whipped butter, like herb or fig, served with freshly baked wild yeast baguettes, topped oysters, steaks and classic puds on offer.
Right in the heart of Chelsea, Ixchel is a modern Mexican restaurant bringing a taste of the Yucatan peninsula to London. The concept comes from restaurateur Fraser Carruthers and Mexican chef Ximena Gayosso Gonzalez (previously of Brat, Ella Canta and Madera at Treehouse London in the capital and at Dulce Patria in Mexico City) and borrows its name from the Mayan goddess of the moon and textiles – you’ll find hints of her influence throughout the restaurant, including moon motifs and contemporary macrame. The interiors at Ixchel are stunning, it’s been fitted out with furnishings made using natural materials and handcrafted artwork that draw both on London’s brutalist architecture and Mexican folk art. Fair warning: it’s beautiful and in Chelsea, so expect the full ‘influencers in the wild experience’, ring lights and all. Also expect a show-stopping food menu from Ximena that includes a selection of ceviches, tacos, tostadas and sharing plates. There are a lot of highlights, but you don’t want to miss the short rib with smoky adobo and pineapple salsa or the crispy potatoes with salsa verde. Drinks-wise, they’ve got a comprehensive selection of well-executed twists on the classic margarita, devised by bar manager Manuel Lema (previously of Cavita and Le Bodegra Negra). Plus, their bar boasts one of the largest collections of tequila in Europe, so if you’re a fan of agave-based liquor, this is a must-visit.
Flavour comes first at this one-off Chelsea cheese shop that sells 30 cheeses from its counter. That might seem like a small number in comparison to many of the other ‘mongers around, but it’s that way for a reason: the selection of cheeses on offer is tightly curated by a collection of people who seriously love what they do. The range changes according to availability and the season, making sure every single choice is a celebration of the work that goes into these artisanal food products. Most importantly, the guys that run it encourage tasting. Lots and lots of tasting. Don’t mind if we do.
With a pizza oven made out of sand and dust from Mount Vesuvius, Santa Maria is defo a cut above the rest. The slightly chewy dough and THAT sauce made with San Marzano D.O.P tomatoes pre-ordered a year in advance make these pizzas what they are…bloody great.
Chef Anna Haugh, who’s worked for the likes of Phil Howard at The Square and Gordon Ramsay as well as her Executive Chef role at Bob Bob Ricard, has gone solo with Myrtle. The restaurant draws on her Irish heritage, with dishes including Clonakilty black pudding rolls with Wendy’s apple chutney; crispy stuffed chicken wing with wild trompette puree; slow confit Goatsbridge trout with cauliflower and capers; and buttermilk panna cotta with rhubarb jelly and cinnamon doughnuts.
The original Dinings in Marylebone was long regarded as one of London’s best high-end sushi restaurants before its sibling Dinings SW3 opened up in Chelsea in 2017. Unlike the tiny original the Chelsea site is much bigger, set in a Grade-I listed mews building with the dining room split over two levels, encompassing a bar/lounge area, a sushi kitchen counter and the main restaurant space. Executive Chef Masaki Sugisaki has made his name across both restaurants blending Japanese cuisine with Western influences – not exactly ‘fusion’ but definitely not strictly traditional either, with dishes like mini wagyu burgers with teriyaki sauce and spicy sesame aioli. The sushi here is definitely the highlight though, the super fresh fatty tuna, sea bass and smoked eel with yuzu are particularly good. There’s an excellent list of sakes too, including a couple made especially for the restaurant brewed by Konotomo in Japan. None of it comes cheap of course, but everyone deserves a treat now and then.
If you’re after fresh fish in Chelsea then fishmonger / deli / seafood and champagne bar The Sea, The Sea is the place to go. By day it functions as a shop where you can buy fresh seafood sourced from around the UK as well as directly from fishermen, with a focus on sustainable fish. There’s also a range of deli products like stocks, sauces, marinades, pies and smoked fish on offer too. By night executive chef Leandro Carreira does dishes like Cornish seabass crudo with crispy parsley and squid with pine nuts & sake for the seafood bar’s menu and you can snack on oysters and other small plates on the terrace.
If you like a bit of posh nosh then head for Elystan Street, run by Michelin star team Phil Howard, previously chef-patron at The Square, and Rebecca Mascarenhas, owner of Kitchen W8 and Sonny’s Kitchen in Barnes. The power couple have transformed the space that was previously Tom Aikens Restaurant and created a menu of modern European food that focuses on British ingredients, so expect dishes like smoked mackerel velouté with Porthilly oysters, leek hearts & eel toasts; roast calves’ sweetbread with truffled autumn slaw & seeded nut butter; and roasted figs with goat’s milk ice cream and lemon & thyme fritters. Of course attention to detail is everything at Elystan Street and the drinks list features a selection of hand picked wines too.
The Cheyne Walk Brasserie has been replaced and rebuilt with No. Fifty Cheyne, with a cocktail lounge and drawing room on the first floor and the 70 seat restaurant on the ground floor. Head Chef Iain Smith, who’s worked extensively with Jason Atherton and the Galvin brothers, is serving up a modern British menu with the kitchen centred around an open grill, so that means dishes like Belted Galloway beef ragout with spatzli, spicy sausage & rose harissa, and Cornish monkfish with roscoff onion, potato straws & roast chicken broth as well as epic Sunday roasts. And of top all that, No. Fifty Cheyne will have great views over both Cheyne Gardens and the Thames.
Opened by Charles Saatchi in 1985 so he could show his collection to the public (although it’s only been on its current Duke of York Square site since 2008), the Saatchi Gallery is known for contemporary art exhibitions and blockbuster shows like Chanel: Mademoiselle Prive and Tutankhamun: Treasues of the Golden Pharaoh.
Established in 1673, Chelsea Physic Garden is the oldest botanical garden in London and one of the oldest across Britain. Thanks to its position near the river and south-facing aspect it has a unique microclimate that allows for plants that wouldn’t normally grow in the UK to thrive – amongst its 5000 different edible and medicinal plants is the UK’s largest fruiting olive tree and the world’s most northerly outdoor grapefruit tree.
Housed in what was formerly Michelin’s London headquarters – hence the massive stained glass window featuring the Michelin Man – Bibendum was first opened as a restaurant by Sir Terence Conran in 1987 and it’s been one of the most famous fine dining establishments in the capital ever since. Claude Bosi took over in 2017 and has since earned two stars for his smart French food, with dishes like Brittany rabbit with langoustine & tarragon, duck jelly with onion, veal sweetbreads with cardamom & coffee, and 100% chocolate souffle. There’s an oyster bar on the ground floor alongside the La Maison Remy Martin cocktail bar, where you can sip on seasonal cognac cocktails and paired snacks.
Also known as the Sloaney Pony thanks to its popularity amongst rahs, the White Horse actually has a lot going on to tempt non-locals down to SW6. Their range of beers, both on draught and in bottles, is strong and they host regular beer festivals too. It’s nice and spacious inside with plenty of sofas to lounge on, but if the weather’s good, you’ll want a spot in the beer garden out front.
Blush + Blow, founded by make-up artist and beauty blogger Bridget O’Keeffe, is Fulham’s one stop-shop for all things beauty. As well as offering blow dries, hair extensions and colouring, the salon does manicures, spray tans, facials, massages, waxing, microblading, IPL, eyelash extensions, make-up and aesthetic treatments so you can treat yourself from top to toe. You can even get piercings done here too.
Since 1956 the Royal Court Theatre has been known as the writer’s theatre, supporting undiscovered, emerging and established writers alike. It’s the forefront of contemporary creative work and gives a platform to unheard voices and future talent, and has staged plays by the likes of Caryl Churchill, Jez Butterworth and Martin McDonagh. The building features two venues, a snug 90-seat theatre upstairs and a much bigger 400-seater downstairs – both offering a top-notch view for the audience.
The Belmond Cadogan is a 5-star boutique hotel located on Sloane Street that first opened in 1887 but recently underwent a multi-million pound renovation. Marble bathrooms, luxury toiletries and plush bedding is standard across all rooms with the fancy suites also boasting walk-in closets and sweeping views. This iconic luxury hotel is also home to a restaurant headed by British chef Adam Handling, the secret green hideaway Cadogan Place Gardens (which only guests have access to) and a Royal Suite in which Oscar Wilde was once arrested.
This award-winning Chelsea greengrocer is pretty unassuming from the outside but don’t let that fool you. Andreas is a firm fave with chefs and foodies, including Nigella, and it’s stacked with fresh produce. So if it’s freshly foraged ceps you’re after or perhaps a punnet of honeysuckle berries, then head on over to Andreas.
From dairy-free, gluten-free and egg-free pastries at breakfast, salad bowls and wraps at lunch and larger plates like chili ‘non’ carne, ackee burrito and the Wulf burger made with a spicy bean and veggie patty topped with cashew aioli, Wulf & Lamb have you covered for vegan eats all day long. They’ve even got sweet stuff from Ruby’s of London so you can treat yourself too.
Looking for the best Neapolitan pizza outside of Napoli? Well we’ve found it. Yep, Cinquecento are slinging them just like Nonna does over in Napoli, using 100% Italian ingredients like San Marzano tomatoes, Fior di latte mozzarella, Sicilian anchovies, San Daniele ham and Calabrian ‘nduja. It also feels like you’re sitting round Nonna’s table in their cosy dining room, featuring plants hanging down from above and framed pictures on the wall. Plus there’s three different locations to choose from, so wherever you are over West, a slice of the good stuff is not too far away.
There are lots of good pubs in London, and lots that claim to bring a slice of the countryside to the city, but none do it quite like The Harwood Arms. The fact that it’s the only Michelin-starred pub in town tells you that it’s a cut above, not to mention it being awarded No. 1 Gastropub in the UK by Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs in 2020 and being named Best Pub and Bar at The Cateys in the same year. Opened in 2009 by The Ledbury’s Brett Graham, restaurateur Mike Robinson, and Edwin Vaux of Vaux Brewery, The Harwood Arms has built its stellar reputation by championing the best of British, particularly game and wild food – it’s definitely not your average pub grub, with the likes of venison scotch egg, Hereford steak tartare, Berkswell cheese tart and Iberico pork with oats & baked carrot on the menu. The Harwood Arms has all the rustic touches of a country pub with the kind of polish that you’d expect from a place in Fulham. The team has really nailed the balance between neighbourhood pub and destination dining in terms of look and service, and of course the food.
Despite what you might think, that’s not how it’s pronounced. Phat Phuc, meaning ‘Happy Buddha’ and pronounced ‘fet fook’, is a noodle shack off the King’s Road that serves up some of the best pho in town. The Vietnamese national dish is their speciality, with beef, chicken, prawn and vegetable options on the list (all at a tenner a bowl, except for beef which is £12). But there are also other dishes on the menu if you fancy venturing outside the pho world. You can grab some prawn har kau, char siu buns or duck pancakes for starters, or a bowl of laksa with either rice or egg noodles for your main. Then grab a seat in the first-come-first-served courtyard, which is even decked out with shelter, heaters and windbreakers for when the weather (inevitably) turns.
In need of a new pub fave? Head to The Lillie Langtry, a Fulham spot that’s recently re-opened its doors with a fresh new look, feel and menu. Think bold British dishes, all freshly prepared daily using seasonal ingredients, including steak and Guinness pie, sausage & mash; cured pork chop; and (if you’re feeling a little fancier) steamed mussels with Bovril butter garlic cream, toasted sourdough & frites. Don’t forget to opt for their sticky toffee pudding too, which comes with a smoked caramel sauce to die for. These guys are really going all out. Whether you’re looking for a spot for a weekday dinner, Friday drinks, Sunday roast with the family or a cosy private space for an intimate date night, make sure to give these guys a go.