loti eats | moio
Stokey’s got (another) brand new restaurant this. Located on the site which was most recently Rustic Twist and before then Tatreez and before then some other fast lived place, it’s now been born again as Moio… lets hope it’s fourth time lucky!
Moio is named after an old Portuguese unit of measurement used in the salt trade between Portugal and Sweden, which is where chef João Ferreira Pinto and sommelier Carolina W Seibel are both from. After spending time at Merlin Labron-Johnson’s Portland, the pair have gone out on their own with Moio and having been down to check it out, we can say that it’s looking very good inside.
The menu is probably best described as modern European sharing plates, with a fair few Portuguese influences thrown in. The quick succession of starters we shared between us are some of the best dishes we’ve eaten lately with a particular shout out going to the beetroot soup, spiked with orange and buttermilk. It was like an up-to-date version of the naughty Heinz soups from our youth and we mean that as the highest compliment.
A cylinder of morcilla came with a blob of plum sauce, the perfect sweet sharp accompaniment to cut through the rich black pudding. The overture was completed by a lamb tartare mixed with cured egg yolk, a very tangy 48 month aged Ilha cheese, and the creamiest ball of burrata topped with cured slivers of beetroot.
Having just got back from a week of eating nothing but pasta in Rome, we had to pass on the saffron cappelletti but it did look good. Instead we went for the aged rump of beef served with a garlic puree and excellent jus. For dessert we had the dish that brings together Portugal and Sweden in one dish, the Portuguese Queijinho de Azeitao served with frozen forest berries for that Scandi touch.
On this evidence, Moio has definitely got what it takes to succeed in this site. If you live local, this is one to check out ASAP.
188 Stoke Newington High Street, London N16 7JD