One of our favourite new openings of 2019, we were very happy to see Da Terra make it into the 2020 Michelin guide with a shiny new star. Da Terra offers blind tasting menus, so the only choice you have to make is if you want the short (£73) or long version (£90) – whatever you choose, it’s all absolutely knock-out brilliant, with each dish beautifully presented and perfectly cooked. There are too many highlights to mention but particular standouts were some of the early courses such as the Isle of Mull scallop, which had been very thinly sliced and served with apple and fennel sauce; the amazing ‘panzanella’ of sweet tomatoes and stracciatella cheese topped with a tomato consomme; and bone marrow and parsley with sourdough. The food at Da Terra is technical and accomplished but the restaurant never loses sight of delivering fantastic dishes that you actually want to eat. The playful touches and amazing service from Rafael, who serves many of the dishes himself, ensures that an evening here is fun as well as showcasing a very talented bunch of chefs in the kitchen.
ROGANIC
Simon Rogan, the chef behind two Michelin-starred L’Enclume in the Lake District, is back in London with Roganic – and it’s one of the best restaurants in London at the moment. Michelin thought so too and awarded it a Michelin Star in the 2019 guide, just a few months after it opened. Each dish of the multi-course menu is genuinely a beautiful creation to look at, backed up by impressive technique and flavours too. The menus change reglularly of course but you might be treated to some of the highlights of our epic lunch there, including a salty bowl of seaweed custard with caviar (better than that sounds we promise!), plus a fresh asparagus spear served with a bone marrow hollandaise. The only proper meaty dish was 21-day-aged Cumbrian pork and it was certainly worth waiting for – two slices of loin covered in translucent lardo, served with a sweet carrot puree, fresh carrot and white broccoli. A fantastic restaurant from a fantastic chef.
LEROY
Despite earning a Michelin star, the Ellory boys decided to shut up shop in London Fields and open Leroy in Shoreditch. Luckily, the gamble payed off as Leroy one it’s own Michelin Star in the 2019 Guide. It’s got the same front of house and kitchen team but is more of a relaxed affair, influenced by the new wave of Parisian wine bars. The space is lovely, a sort-of triangular site with lots of natural light, a bar/counter area with high stools and an open kitchen. They offer a range of snacks and sharing plates on the menu, as well as cheese and charcuterie so it caters for all occasions – we’d happily pop in for the terrine, a plate of cheese, and a glass of wine at the bar anytime
DINNER BY HESTON
Since Dinner by Heston Blumenthal opened in 2011, it’s gained two Michelin stars and has gained a very respectable place at 36 on the World’s 50 Best List. This being Heston, there is some culinary magic involved in a lot of the dishes but it’s certainly more pared back than what you’d find at The Fat Duck. Although very modern, many of the dishes are inspired by historical British recipes, delving back as far as the time of Henry VIII. All this might make you think that Dinner by Heston is very hard to get in to and not exactly easy on the wallet, and you’d be right – but take our tip and get in there at lunch time (Mon – Fri) where you can have the set lunch menu for just £45, and you’ll have a much easier time getting a rezzie too.
PIED A TERRE
Even though Pied a Terre has been around a long time (26 years to be precise) it’s always kept things fresh by having a series of talented young Head Chefs in the kitchen, the latest of which is Asimakis Chaniotis who is just 27. We began with a light but richly flavoured starter, Isle of Mull scallops with yuzu, celeriac and autumn truffle and next was a lentil and root vegetable casserole with gammon, perfect for the cold dark nights in London. Of the two main dishes, beef with bone marrow, spinach and enoki mushrooms was our favourite but the Cornish plaice with courgette was also excellent. To round it all off we had a beautiful chocolate pavé with chilli and stem ginger.
Pied a Terre is a London classic but one that is constantly reinventing itself to stay relevant in the city’s ever changing restaurant scene. With great food, wine and service, long may it continue.
A WONG
Beloved of foodies everywhere for years, A Wong finally won a Michelin star in 2017 and deservedly so. This is not a place to indulge in the classics as Mr Andrew Wong cooks up a creative storm of modern twists of dim sum – think rabbit and carrot puffs shaped like little carrots or wagyu tart with truffle. It’s fun, it’s delicious and even though it’s in Victoria you should still go there. We absolutely cannot wait for A Wong’s next place opening in the Bloomberg Arcade in 2018.
THE SQUARE
When Phil Howard left The Square, where he was head chef for 25 years and held two Michelin stars, he did a good job of leaving it such capable hands. The new owners, MARC Restaurants, have given the place a huge refurb and installed new chef Clément Leroy, who has a very impressive CV having worked at some France’s best restaurants – and he now has a star of his own at The Square. We went all in for the full tasting menu and matching wines and it was one of the best dinners we’ve had of this type for a long time, with genuine care and thought put into the dishes. The approach of not using too much butter or cream definitely helped too! Highlights for us included the cured Cornish mackerel with leek, pink radish and chive; the roe deer with Jerusalem artichoke and mushroom praline; and the warm chocolate Grand Cru.
LYLE'S
Lyle’s has built up a stellar reputation thanks to its elegant, seasonal British food but if you don’t want to plan ahead, you can also drop in for small plates and a glass of wine from their bar snack menu (as long as one of the six bar stools are free of course). It is a changing menu, but if the mussel, garlic and spenwood flatbread or the smoked eel with cabbage and seaweed are on, they’re must-orders. It’s not exactly cheap, but as a Michelin-starred pit-stop it’s pretty perfect.
THE RITZ
London has its fair share of iconic, world-famous hotels but The Ritz arguably trumps them all. The grand Grade-II listed building on the edge of Green Park has been around since 1906 and as you step inside, it feels as though not much has changed since then, with its decadent furnishings modelled on the grand old hotels of Paris. Nowhere does this feel more true than the dining room with its chandeliers, thick curtains, painted ceiling and classical sculptures – there aren’t many dining rooms in London like it and although it’s not exactly the design-style of today, it’s an amazing place to spend an evening; a pure piece of dining escapism.
Despite its reputation for all things grand and luxurious, The Ritz never held a Michelin star until it was awarded one in 2016 under the stewardship of Executive Chef John Williams, who joined the hotel in 2004. John’s refined menus are befitting of the space, beautifully presented classic French dishes that still feel fresh and modern enough to hold their own in London’s innovation-hungry dining scene. We went by for dinner and selected the Menu Surprise, consisting of six seasonal courses selected by John Williams, which at £105 is by no means bad value by Michelin London standards.
LA DAME DE PIC
Anne-Sophie Pic has five Michelin-stars across three restaurants already to her name. Her London opening, La Dame de Pic, shares its name with her Paris restaurant and she couldn’t have picked a more stunning location for it; the newly opened Four Seasons Hotel at Trinity Square. The building used to the Port of London Authority back in the day and the whole place is very grand indeed. La Dame de Pic itself is no exception, with big windows, high ceilings, and glamorous art deco design touches. And now she has another two Michelin stars to her name with her London restaurant, which added a 2nd star with the 2020 guide. The food too is sophisticated and beautifully presented, mixing a classic French style with some more unusual ingredients and Japanese influences (Pic lived and worked in Japan for a while). We loved seeing British ingredients such as Cornish crab given a different treatment, served here with sobacha and dill panna cotta, Corsican clementine and discs of crunchy celeriac
HAKKASAN
Sister to Yauatcha, Hakkasan also knocks out some beautifully refined Chinese food at its two locations in Mayfair and Hanway Place. It loses minor points for the permanent nightclub soundtrack but the cooking more than makes up for it. Again, you could spend a small fortune if you go for dinner but check out the Dim Sum Sundays menu available from midday until 6:45, which is £62 per person and includes a bottle of champagne to share, two cocktails each, a banging selection of dim sum and a main course too. A pretty civilsed way to spend a Sunday we think.
HELENE DARROZE AT THE CONNAUGHT
Helene Darroze took up residence at The Connaught way back in 2008, securing two Michelin stars within 3 years of opening. Still going strong, the restaurant serves fine dining food with French flair, each dish beautifully presented (and instagram worthy!). Each course is cleverly thought out and perfectly executed, both in terms of flavour and texture. Fresh crab and avocado was topped with salty caviar; rich Foie gras came with a thin disk of fruit jelly; and coco bean was served alongside meaty cubes of eel and shimeji – a small Japanese mushroom. Lobster was accompanied with asparagus, seaweed and botargo and then came the juicy sweetbread with more asparagus, morel mushrooms and white wine. If you’re looking for somewhere to celebrate, want to treat yourself or just fancy a blow out this place needs to be on the list.
TRISHNA
Michelin-starred Trishna takes you on a journey through India with plates inspired by the south coast, rich seafood dishes from Goa and a range of puris, bhajis, behls and idlis, and you can go for seafood, veggie or meaty tasting menus. This is anything but your average curry house and is one to save for a real treat.
GYMKHANA
Modelled after the sporting clubs of the Raj, with lots of dark wood, rattan, marble tables and hunting trophies, Michelin-starred Gymkhana is a tad more upmarket than your average curry house. It offers boldly spiced sharing dishes and a strong focus on game…you don’t see dishes like Kid Goat Methi Keema, Gilafi Quail Seekh Kebab, Sofiyan Roe Deer Chop and the famous Wild Muntjac Biryani at any old place. There’s even a seven course tasting menu if it really tickles your fancy.
Gymkhana doesn’t hold back on the booze either, re-creating a 17th century Indian punch house on the ground floor where you can sip on iced punches, pink gin and tonics, IPAs and spiced cocktails like Quinine Sour, Fusion Lassi and Kohli Margarita. Fancy feasting indeed.
HIDE
Arguably one of the best restaurants in London, Ollie Dabbous’ Hide was awarded a Michelin star just 6 months after opening. We’ve been for dins and loved it but it’s true that it can get pricey in the evenings, so another way in is to head over for weekend brunch where the menu is just £48. Brunch begins with a bunch of snacks, including Porthilly oysters with Amalfi lemon; tempura aubergine served with Thai basil and green peppercorns; and flatbread cooked over charcoal with beetroot hummus and Graceburn creamy cheese.
There are four starters to choose from and we dug into the HIDE Croque Monsieur, a dense cheesy masterpiece, as well as cured organic salmon with chervil mayonnaise and pickled yellow courgette. From the mains, the Cornish crab linguine stole the show – served from pan to plate table side, we enjoyed the subtle spiciness and richness of this dish. The barbecued 50 day-aged beef short rib served with crispy potato cake and onion rings, virgin rapeseed béarnaise, with super sweet smoked tomato is out of this world, too. For £48 in one of the best restaurants in town, you just can’t go wrong.
