loti eats | the test kitchen

Adam Simmonds’ Test Kitchen is a year-long pop-up in Soho which has taken over the old Barrafina site on Frith Street. With 23 covers, the intimate space is essentially one big chef’s table where you can give direct feedback on the dishes and be part of the conversation that decides the menu at his future restaurant, planned for early 2018.

Adam’s not sticking to one style of cookery and we had a whole range of dishes and genres over the night. Salt Baked Swede, Blackberries, Cocoa Nibs with Goats Cheese was our first dish along with the white asparagus, Linzer Potatoes, Caviar and Whey. It was a great start – fresh, light, super tasty, and we just want more.

From the fish section, we had Poached Scallop, Nashi Pear, Sesame, with Dashi and the Halibut, Morels, Broad beans, Wild Garlic and Flowers. All dishes are served and explained through by one of the team or Adam himself and are beautifully presented; you almost feel guilty for spoiling them, but not when they taste this good. From the meat; Lamb, Salsify, King Oyster, Pickled Shallot and Milk Skin is hugely satisfying, the lamb super soft and tender.

To finish, the Milk Chocolate mousse, Whisky, Coffee and Finger Limes really did the job, rich in flavour but still light enough to not be overbearing. For Soho, the wine list is pretty reasonable price-wise too and the Grechetto from Italy was exactly what you want in the middle of a heatwave; light, refreshing and too damn drinkable.

54 Frith Street, London W1D 4SL