The Stafford in St James’s is home to The Game Bird, a classic British restaurant with chef Jozef Rogulski at the helm. As you might expect from a five star hotel practically in the shadow of Buckingham Palace, The Stafford and The Game Bird alike are swishy spaces, with plush furniture and walls covered with expensive artworks.

The menu is classic by design but has enough modern flair to keep things interesting. Cured Cornish mackerel served with apple, lemon verbena jelly and radish, was super fresh and a welcome mix of crisp clean textures. The Caesar salad with crispy chicken skin, pancetta and smoked anchovy was punchy starter that managed to successfully balance a lot of bold flavours.

Jumping into the mains, the pan-roasted halibut features a generous chunky slab of fleshy white fish alongside a rich artichoke and mussel chowder. We’d recommend getting the broccoli with hollandaise and hazelnuts for an extra splash of greens to go with.

The free-range chicken kiev stood out on the menu from the get-go – this is no ordinary chicken kiev. The dish is presented with a leather apron (yes really) which we were advised to wear as the kiev has been known to dispense its molten hot insides and burst over anyone who may stand in its path. With only one kiev proof vest to go around, we decided to chance it and managed to escape unharmed.

To bring the evening to a close, we opted for the baked Alaska, made table-side and served on fire (without a vest we may add).

The Stafford, 16-18 St James’s Place, London SW1A 1NJ