It’s the latest from The Public House Group
Said group has been on an absolute roll these past few years – they are also behind The Pelican, The Hero, The Bull at Charlbury, and Canteen. The latter is their breezy Italian spot that took over the old Pizza East site on Portobello Road; and on the second and third floors above that restaurant you’ll find The Fat Badger. The second floor is more of a pub, with pints and live music, while the third floor is the sit down restaurant and open kitchen headed up by chef George Williams. The restaurant opened quietly and was invite-only at first but now anyone can book on the website.
Eat This
We can’t give you tips on what to eat, as The Fat Badger serves a regularly changing four course set menu for £95. But we can tell you that the food is really excellent and you will not be leaving hungry.
On our August visit, we started with a lovely cold tomato soup, topped with cucumber and white crab and served with freshly baked soda bread. Then, a mini raw beef tostada with celeriac and bone marrow; a sweetbread taco (a highlight of the snacks) with hot sauce butter; and the scallop toast, done like a very deluxe prawn toast, and absolutely sublime.
First of the mains was a fillet of John Dory with brown shrimp and sweetcorn, which was then followed by a huge platter of beef fillet to share – thick slices of perfectly cooked beef, girolle mushrooms, béarnaise sauce, and horseradish.
This nearly finished us off, but we just about came around for two mini desserts: a grape tart with creme France and a superb ricotta doughnut with blackcurrant ripple ice cream.
Drink This
We started with the classic cuvee from Langham, one of our favourite English sparkling wines. Then, a dry furmint Tokaji from Kikelet (recommended in our feature on dry Tokaji here), a classic Pomerol to go with that beef and to end a brown butter old fashioned.
And we of course had to finish the night with a pint at the pub below, as well as catching a few tunes from the live band who perform every Friday and Saturday night.
Why Go
The Fat Badger is another excellent spot from the Public House Group. These guys know how to do it right, with always excellent food and a good vibe. And £95 is actually very good value for what you get.
Key Information
Address | 310 Portobello Road, W10 5TA
For more information | thefatbadgerw10.com
