loti eats | the square
When Phil Howard left The Square, where he was head chef for 25 years and held two Michelin stars, he did a good job of leaving it such capable hands. The new owners, MARC Restaurants, have given the place a huge refurb and installed new chef Clément Leroy, who has a very impressive CV having worked at some France’s best restaurants.
The Square always had incredible food but the dining room was a little ‘old school’ and business-like before but now it’s looking much fresher with big modern artworks, new seating and lighting. The food is fresher too, still very French but without so much cream and butter, which is central to Leroy’s style.
We went all in for the full tasting menu and matching wines and it was one of the best dinners we’ve had of this type for a long time, with genuine care and thought put into the dishes. The approach of not using too much butter or cream definitely helped too! Highlights for us included the cured Cornish mackerel with leek, pink radish and chive; the roe deer with Jerusalem artichoke and mushroom praline; and the warm chocolate Grand Cru.
As ever, it’s not cheap but if you’re looking for that special occasion spot then we were very impressed by this new incarnation of The Square.
6-10 Bruton St, London W1J 6PU