loti eats | smoke & salt
On the upper deck of Pop Brixton, Smoke & Salt has found it hard to shake off their predecessors Kricket – the number of times they saw the disappointment on the faces of people looking for small Indian sharing plates has been too many to count. AND to be fair Kricket is good isn’t it? But Smoke & Salt has absolutely nothing to worry about. Born from co-chefs Aaron Webster (Dinner by Heston and The Latymer in Pennyhill Park) & Remi Williams (Craigie on Main and Deuxave) back in 2014, Smoke & Salt takes their fancy pants dining experience and recreates food in an exciting and more affordable way through modern sharing dishes. From pop up to permanent, the 20 cover shipping container has been their home since 2017 and is one of the smallest kitchens in London.
Interestingly, we had ventured from a huge restaurant in Soho that just bombed and walked into a shipping container in Brixton for something that is just next level. ‘Modern Dining – Ancient Technique’ is how they describe their approach to cooking, and boy will we get into that. There is magic in a lot of what Smoke & Salt do, like offering a seven-course tasting menu for just twenty-five quid. The dinner menu is broken down into five sections, ‘To Start’, ‘Veg’, ‘Meat’, ‘Fish’ and ‘Sweet’. First, let’s talk about these sweetcorn fritters. Now if you are thinking these would be round and flat, prepare for your mind to be blown – they are still on the cob. Brilliant. The new potatoes come with chimichurri, gorgonzola and a healthy helping of Wiltshire beef heart if you are interested; we were and its a must on the order list.
The Chalkstream trout is super flavoursome, strong and served alongside green tomato, olive, gentleman’s relish. The standout of the night though was the curried goat, packing a punch on the spice scale the meat is soft, delicate and comes with pickled pumpkin steam buns that you can use to mop up every last little morsel and perfect for the colder days ahead.
Drinks-wise, they are equally as quirky, like the Cherry Negroni aged in-house with British cherries gin, Campari and vermouth, and The Raspberry Bang Bang with their party-starting tongue tingler of rum, basil and chilli.
The passion that goes into the cooking is at the heart of what Smoke & Salt are about, everything else is built around that, and you can’t help but sense how proud the team are when talking you through the menu and delivering the dishes. This is what it is all about. For foodies you’d be damn crazy not to have this on your list.
Smoke & Salt, Pop Brixton, 49 Brixton Station Road, SW9 8PQ
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