Soho institution Quo Vadis has just reopened after a nip and tuck ahead of its 90th birthday and arrival of new tenant Barrafina, moving in next month (thanks to owners The Hart Group who are the masterminds behind Barrafina and new taco joint El Pastor). The restaurant is now much cosier with just over 20 covers, and just like before it shut its doors, Jeremy Lee is heading up the stoves with a daily changing menu of seasonal specials and classic QV bites.

We kicked off our dinner with the Campari, blackcurrant and prosecco apertivo and the moreish smoked eel sandwich with horseradish and mustard cream from the bites section – we’re not kidding, we could have eaten 10 of these for our dinner and left happy bunnies. From the mains the highlight was the simple, yet beautifully cooked skate wing and THOSE chips, whilst the generously filled profiteroles with chocolate coating finished us off just nicely.

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With an affordable wine list, brilliant service and a menu of classic dishes done well, we’re pretty sure Quo Vadis will see out another 90 years in Soho. We’ll drink to that.

26-29 Dean Street, London, W1D 3LL