LOTI EATS | MORTIMER HOUSE KITCHEN

Inside the Art Deco building of Mortimer House in the heart of Fitzrovia is Mortimer House Kitchen, a Soho House-esque all-day set up where Head Chef Lello Favuzzi, previously of L’Anima, merges his passion for Italian and Israeli food.

The mid-century decor is easy on the eye and annoyingly impressive – there’s never anything like that on eBay when we look. The herringbone flooring, glass-ceiling conservatory and the open kitchen at the back all add to the glamour of the place. No wonder there’s a members’ club upstairs.

Photo by Ed Reeve

The menu highlights the bold flavours of Italy and is peppered with exotic touches of the Middle East. A plate of burnt carrots, yoghurt, tahini and fennel pollen is light and sweet with a little bitterness from the charring. Mazara prawn crudo, with a little chilli and celery cress for garnish, is wonderful and a rich herb tortellini with smoked burrata and noisette butter hidden inside with a pot of balsamic vinegar for drizzling shows off more Italian simplicity.

A beautifully presented grilled veal cutlet topped with Sicilian vegetable caponata, with the bone almost wagging in our faces, is impressive to look at and rich in flavour. Continuing with the Italian specialities, the tiramisu with those extremely sexy chocolate crisps is the type of dessert that makes sharing dangerous. If wolfing down puds was a sport, this would be ours to run with.

Chef Favuzzi clearly has fun putting this food together; it’s simple at times, mind blowing at others and always well executed. A very enjoyable lunch in a place we can’t wait to hang out in again.

37 Mortimer St, Fitzrovia, London W1T 3JH
mortimerhouse.com

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