loti eats | macellaio rc northcote road

When does a group of restaurants turn into a soulless chain? Not on its fourth restaurant if Macellaio RC on Northcote Road, restaurateur Roberto Costa’s latest addition to his successful family of Italian steak restaurants, is anything to go by. Setting itself apart from its sister restaurants in South Ken, Exmouth Market and Union Street, the Clapham eatery pours and swirls exclusively Italian wines, with no less than 100 different labels behind the bar.

The steak, meanwhile, chosen from the butcher counter set directly amongst the tables, is the same winning dry-aged Fassona beef. Tender and extraordinarily low in fat, it’s served up as razor-thin slices of carpaccio, as slow-cooked ragu with piled-high strands of tagliatelle, or simply as cuts of steak cooked with rock salt and Tuscan extra virgin olive oil. There’s a distinct rock ‘n’ roll vibe here too, with knives skewered into tables rather than laid beside plates (although we’d say save any knives in the wood tricks for later – nobody wants an eye taken out before dinner); an eclectic soundtrack and modern design flourishes breaking up the rustic decor.

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It’s a great spot for a carnivorous fix with a twist and proof that rolling a concept out doesn’t need to mean loss of quality or character.

124 Northcote Road, London SW11 6QU

Written by Nicky Clarke.