Seafood seems to have come back in fashion with a fair few openings towards the end of 2019 specialising in all things from the sea. One such opening was Lyon’s located in the rather nice village-y area of Crouch End. There’s a good calibre of people behind the restaurant, both front of house and in the kitchen, and the menu is scattered with modern, on-trend ingredients that elevate the seafood. Even the non-fishy dishes are well worth ordering like the crispy potatoes with curry sauce, polenta cubes with cured egg yolk & soy and spiced lamb belly with aubergine and pomegranate.
From the seafood selection though do not miss the pickled mussels on rye, an escabeche-style dish bursting with flavour. You will want to order more bread to mop up that sauce. The miso fish collar with seaweed mayo is an interesting dish too – the collar is usually thrown away but it actually features buttery, fatty pieces of meat and it’s always good to see places implementing less waste practices. If the thyme ice-cream sandwich with pickled pear is on the menu, this is another banger; the encasing crispy pastry has a taste reminiscent of brandy snaps.
Wine is well curated too and there’s some interesting English wines plus some cocktails if you’re going all in. The interiors and offering make this place not only a great neighbourhood joint, but a restaurant worth travelling to Crouch End for. Take our lead and make a day of it by walking the old train tracks long Parkland Walk before or after.
1 Park Road, London, N8 8TE