The Compton Arms in Islington has had a refurb and the makeover extends to the kitchen where Four Legs has taken up residence. The pub was one of George Orwell’s favourite haunts, hence the name ‘Four Legs’ taken from his novel Animal Farm: “Four Legs good, two legs bad!”.

The chef duo of Jamie Allan (ex-Hill & Szrok) and Ed McIlroy (ex-Bao) are in the kitchen serving up a seasonal British menu with European and Asian influences, with a focus on local produce. They switch up the menu a fair bit but there’s a few thing always on there including something that’s worth heading down for alone: the cheeseburger. That may not sound so exciting but trust us, this is definitely one of the best burgers in London. With a thin patty, diced onions, pickles and cheese it’s basically like a McDonald’s Quarter Pounder but infinitely better.

There’s plenty more to love here too – in fact we loved all of it. Another thing that’ll have us hot footing it back there is the keema paratha bread, a pillow-soft flat bread stuffed with minced lamb. Then there’s the cheese and chive fritters, the chicken skewers, and the burrata with broad bean and black olives, all of which hit the spot. Whatever you do though, make sure you get a side of the fried new potatoes that come with a very addictive aioli.

We loved the new Compton Arms. It’s a classic little pub and Four Legs have knocked it out the park with the food – prices are super reasonable too. We’re going to be back for the Sunday roast as soon as possible.

The Compton Arms, 4 Compton Avenue, London N1 2XD