Chefs Will Murray and Jack Croft, who worked together at Dinner by Heston, now run Fallow, a creative yet sustainable, nose-to-tail and root-to-stem restaurant concept. The pair did their first residency at Carousel back in November and now they’ve taken over the kitchen at Crispin in Spitalfields.
As the pair are big on sustainability, the menu changes weekly, though they always do a ‘one of everything’ option to be split between two people and this is absolutely the best way to go. After a round of bread and charcuterie, the highlights on our visit were pink fir potatoes, crushed for maximum crispness, served with a vibrant green wild garlic puree; pollock with a rich smoked bacon sauce, offset with bitter leaves; and veal short rib, with tender meat that pulled right off the bone, served with a silky celeriac puree, spring greens and a sticky jus.
Puddings aren’t included in the whole menu option but we tried both dishes on offer – all in the name of research of course. The Yorkshire rhubarb with olive oil cake and yoghurt ice cream was a great showcase for the fruit, which is bang in season right now. However it was the descriptively understated lemon peel pudding that was the real showstopper – a take on an old school Sussex pond pudding, featuring a curd made from leftover lemon peel from the bar and kitchen and a salted caramel sauce that oozed out of the pudding case.
The guys are in residence at Crispin until 7th March and then they’re moving over to Mayfair as Fallow is next up to take over 10 Heddon Street. Jack and Will are cooking up some cracking dishes right now and they’re only going to get better, so we highly suggest you check ’em out where you can.
White’s Row, London E1 7NF
crispinlondon.com