Given the rate at which restaurants open and close in this city, anywhere that survives more than a couple of years can easily become a classic. It opened in 2012 (so not brand new but certainly not old) yet that’s exactly what it feels like at 10 Greek Street. It also massively helps that there’s some fantastic cooking and an effortlessly convivial atmosphere happening inside. The staff have nailed the art of relaxed service and diners are more than happy to talk across tables – it’s a small restaurant but you don’t actually mind being sat close together.

The concept here is simple in that there is no concept; just a daily changing menu, broadly European in style, built around what produce is best and chalked up on the blackboard. Though it’s not separated in that way, you could do starters and mains or, like us, order up a bunch of dishes and split them as they come out of the kitchen. We went heavy on the seafood, opting for the fried baby squid, crispy without any signs of greasiness; sweet scallops with a rich crab mayo, fondant potato and cucumber; and a meaty chunk of hake sat on sea vegetables and a mussel-flecked bisque.

One of the standout plates of the whole meal though was vegetarian, a tomato risotto topped with roasted tomatoes, dollops of goat’s cheese, basil and pine nuts. So simple and so bloody tasty. The dessert special – pavlova with lemon curd, clotted cream and berries – followed that same line of classic flavours expertly handled.

The wine list at 10 Greek Street is as well curated as the food menu. It’s short but varied and lacking crazy mark-ups – you can get glasses under a fiver, which feels like a steal. And if you’re really into your vino the restaurant opens its Little Black Book on Sundays, giving you the chance to get handpicked bin ends from fine wine lists and bottles from private auctions and cellar sales at heavily slashed prices. That’s how you take Sunday lunch up a notch.

Great food, great wine, zero pretension, all delivered without blowing a hole in your wallet – here’s to many more years of 10 Greek Street.

10 Greek Street, London, W1D 4DH