Been noticing a lot of cabbage-wrapped dishes on the menus of London’s restaurants lately? So have we. Maybe this has come as a surprise to you – cabbage is not exactly the world’s most popular vegetable – or, maybe not. The leafy green gets a bit of a bad rep for its sulphuric smell and blandness when cooked in bland ways (we’re looking at you, Bucket family), but pickle it, stuff it, throw it in a salad and it becomes something special. And, crucially, it’s cheap – even in comparison to other vegetables in its genus. So, we thought it was about time we round up some of the London spots that are giving cabbage a redemption arc, where cabbage is the hero of the dishes and not some slimy menace. Enjoy!
Papi
New kid on the block Papi has got this gambas farcelette on the menu, a prawn mousse wrapped in cabbage leaves, and they’ve nailed it both texture and flavour-wise.
Nessa
Hyped Soho newbie Nessa has got the plant-based covered with this spiced bulgar wheat stuffed cabbage with parsnip purée and oregano.
Cadet
One of the city’s favourite wine bars, Cadet may switch up their menu of small plates frequently, but, if you’re in luck, you might catch their smoked eel chou farci with wild garlic.
Mangal II
Stuffed cabbage rolls are a regular feature on Turkish menus, and that of Mangal II is no different. Whether stuffed with aged pollock or fermented peppers, sarma has long been a staple here.