Caravan has gone west for the first time and opened a restaurant in Duke of York Square. However, it’s not just another Caravan, though the travelling link is still there. This one is Vardo, named after the Romani wagon of the 1800s, and it’s taken over a three-storey cylindrical stone and glass pavilion in the square. It’s actually a very cool building; all gentle curves and muted tones inside and the glass wall is fully retractable. Like Caravan, the menu at Vardo draws influences from across the globe with a focus on low and slow cooking techniques. If you’ve been to Caravan before then there’s a lot here you’ll recognise including the jalapeno cornbread with chipotle butter and lime, and the jamon and San Simon croquettes with saffron aioli. There are Asian-inspired grain bowls and European flavours on the pizzas, and the vegetable section of the menu is strong as well as varied, with the likes of slow-roasted carrots with brined mustard greens and ajo blanco and the roasted jerusalem artichokes with green tahini on there.
