From supper clubs in his kitchen to pop-ups across East London to a restaurant on Mare Street and now to a permanent spot just off the canal in Hackney, Gabriel Waterhouse’s The Water House Project has been on quite a journey. It’s latest iteration is less a restaurant and more a dining experience – there’s one sitting every Wednesday – Saturday night with one nine-course tasting menu and low-intervention wine pairing on offer, meaning the whole room is served at the same time. The menus change seasonally but always showcase the refined modern British style that Gabriel and his team have developed over time, so you can expect dishes like chicken liver & blackcurrant jammie dodger; St Austell mussels with preserved lemon & fermented artichoke; hen’s egg with smoked haddock, ratte potato & mustarf; Sutton Hoo chicken with morels & wild garlic; and apple, celeriac & calvados.