Once the dreary choice on Sunday roast menus everywhere, chicken is now back in a big way, becoming the star of the show in many new restaurants across town. Tom Sellers’ new Story Cellar offers superlative rotisserie chicken on its regular evening menu and it’s also the centrepiece to one of the best Sunday roasts we’ve had in ages. Take a seat up a the kitchen counter to see the chickens slowly rotating in the rotisserie and kick off with some house made charcuterie, pickles and a glass of Gusbourne English fizz to start. Then it’s the main event, a juicy succulent chicken with golden skin, served with some truly excellent crispy roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, carrots, buttered greens, and smashed swede – a perfect substitute for Northerners who like (demand) mashed potatoes with any roast. Beef, pork, and beetroot wellington is all on offer too, but really you’d be mad not to get that chicken. Top marks.