Head chef Isaac Barlett-Copeland is the man behind Brighton’s Isaac At which has been running in a temporary supperclub format since March 2015 and has now gone permanent. This is a very good thing indeed as Isaac is cooking some incredible food, made even more remarkable by the fact that he’s only 22.
Isaac At has a format that will be familiar to Londoners: a paired back aesthetic; a set tasting menu; and an informal yet fine-dining influenced approach to service. This isn’t just Hackney transported to the seaside, however, as Isaac is committed to highlighting the best Sussex produce right down to the matched drinks pairing of Sussex wines or juices.
We kicked off with snacks of roasted carrot with crispy puffed rice and salted pollock with cauliflower, hazelnut and parsley which were both very impressive. Then were a couple of meaty dishes, a beautiful crispy lamb belly and smoked broccoli and then roast chicken with salt baked celeriac and gem lettuce. A palate cleanser of apple, quince and bay sorbet was next, followed by a final dessert of poached pear, rosehip, honey and cardamom ice cream.
Isaac At is a fantastic spot for locals – and for Londoners its well worth the trip down to the seaside.