We were all very sad to hear in 2020 that The Dairy in Clapham was closing but that only lasted a week as Robin Gill moved the restaurant to the Bermonds Locke Hotel (and also changed the name to Bermondsey Larder). We’re not quite sure what went on with the name but suffice to say, it doesn’t really matter, as Robin’s food is always brilliant, whatever the restaurant’s called. The room itself maybe isn’t the best designed restaurant around, feeling more like a cafe than a proper restaurant, but what the surroundings lack in cosiness, the food more than makes up for with dishes like Dexter rump beef tartare with shallot & thyme buttermilk, smoked eel brandade tartlet, whole mackerel with clams, mussels & samphire, toasted bread with fig jam & melted truffled Baron Bigod, and malt barley choux bun with chocolate salted caramel. There’s a very solid list of natural wines on offer too and staff are very knowledgeable about what’s on offer – the team often make visits to visit producers so they really know their stuff.
