One of London’s best pop-ups turns up the heat
An old English pub given a kind-of French country makeover with a Chinese concept in the kitchen – Godet really does have it all going on. The Islington venue, upgraded from boozer to wine pub thanks to some terracotta and sage paint, farmhouse-style tables, and candles to keep it romantic, is sister to Binch in Hackney. Like its sibling, Godet does a solid line of European wines and craft beer but it also has killer cooks in the kitchen. Jenny Phung is currently in residence with Ling Ling’s, following stints at The Bluecoats and The Gun.
Eat This
Jenny draws inspo from her Chinese heritage, her family and flavours from across Asia for Ling Ling’s, which has amassed a loyal following over the years. Eating her dishes at Godet, it’s easy to see why Ling Ling’s gets so much love. Here she’s created a menu of punchy plates and playful twists on classic dishes, aka perfect drinking food.
Wontons are a Ling Ling’s staple and she has two versions on the Godet menu – we loved the fried pork and water chestnut ones, super crispy yet still juicy inside. The gochujang cauliflower, which comes smothered in crispy onions and chilli oil, is another riot of heat and texture. The radish cakes might be the sleeper hit of the menu; well-fried oblongs that retain a nice bite despite being doused in a soy pomegranate dressing.
Not every dish is so spice- and umami-forward. The glass skin chicken is super moist, and the shimeji mushrooms, tong ho and cooking broth make it a delicate counterpoint to the other dishes.
Drink This
Godet is as much for beer drinks as it is wine fans, with nine taps rotating regularly. The predominantly French bottle list also evolves but you’ll always have a couple of sparkling, whites, reds, and an orange by the glass, which you can see chalked up on the board. We found the refreshing Domaine Dupraz En Route Pour l’Apero to be a great partner for the food.
Why Go
With decent selections across both beer and wine, Godet serves drinkers well. It’s a relaxed spot that works for a quick bev, a date, or a night out – DJs play vinyl sets on Fridays and Saturdays. Ling Ling’s in the kitchen just takes things up a notch. Jenny’s menu is bold and interesting without being fussy, so if you’ve not had her food yet, you need to.
Key Information
Address | 382 Essex Rd, London N1 3PF
For more information | godetlondon.com
