L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon closed last year after the passing of Joël Robuchon but the legend lives on, with Le Comptoir Robuchon having just opened in Mayfair. Headed up by Jeremy Page (Executive chef from L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris) in the kitchen, the restaurant will be joined by Le Deli Robuchon just round the corner on Piccadilly, which is opening towards the end of the year.
The menu at Le Comptoir has two parts: La Saison (modern seasonal dishes) and Les Eternels (Robuchon classics). We began with a starter from each section; from the classics, a beetroot tartar with an ice cold scoop of mustard sorbet on top and, from the seasonal section, a mackerel dish. The beetroot itself was very nice but the mustard sorbet didn’t particularly add anything and was so cold we eventually pushed it aside. The mackerel was insanely good, served with little picked onions filled with caviar, plus slivers of kohlrabi and blobs of horseradish.
We kept to the seasonal section for the mains, and we loved the aged British wagyu beef with onion confit, which we dunked into the bowl of creamy potato puree that all the main dishes come with. Then there was the turbot fillet topped with caviar (there’s a lot caviar flying about the place) and a seaweed butter sauce, which wasn’t quite as exciting but excellent nonetheless.
If you can only fit in one dessert, make sure it’s Le Chocolate Sensation. This bowl of chocolate mousse is stuffed with crispy chocolate bits and topped with another bit of smooth dark chocolate and passion fruit puree. It was scrape the bowl clean good.
We were massively impressed by the food at Le Comptoir Robuchon. Just a word of warning that the prices are pitched at a Mayfair audience so consider asking your boss to take your for a team bonding dinner – or try and visit for the midweek lunch menu which is a steal at £39 for three courses.
6 Clarges Street, London W1J 8AE