Another great Thai spot for Soho
Formerly a Borough Market pop-up, Khao Bird now has a permanent Soho site, serving Northern Thai-inspired cooking from chef Luke Larsson and restaurateur Mike Palmer, shaped by time spent cooking and travelling in Northern Thailand. Fermentation, herbs, bitterness and heat drive the menu, wrapped up in playful dish names – perhaps a little too playful at times.
The space was once home to Soho’s last surviving adult cinema, and it still hums with that energy: loud music, tightly packed tables and a sense of near chaos that nods to the buzz of its pop-up days.
Sustainability also underpins the project. Khao Bird is B-Corp certified and committed to seasonal, local produce, working with Sussex suppliers including the 3,500-acre rewilding project Knepp Estate, alongside a network of small-scale London producers.
Eat This
If you know Khao Bird from Borough, you’ll recognise the Shan BBQ meatballs straight away. They’re still the standout. Herbal chicken meatballs wrapped in caul fat, grilled and finished with a sticky cola glaze, they’re labelled as “Ikea-style” on the menu, but honestly, they don’t need the gimmicky lingo to sell them.
The beef and Campari larb is another highlight. Essentially a Northern Thai take on steak tartare, the Campari brings a bitter edge that replaces an ingredient traditionally used in Thailand but rarely seen here: bile from a cow’s stomach.
Our favourite dish on the table was the onglet steak with white curry – perfectly cooked meat paired with a creamy, subtly spicy sauce that hits a satisfying balance between richness and heat. Chiang Mai BBQ chicken was juicy and properly charred but the accompanying sauces skewed a little too sweet for our taste.
The menu changes regularly, which feels important here. This is a place built around movement and invention, rather than locking in crowd-pleasers forever.
Drink This
The drinks list keeps pace with the food. Cocktails are playful without feeling throwaway. The I Am Broke, made with Lidl vodka, wears its budget credentials proudly, while the mango sticky rice frozen cocktail tastes exactly like it sounds and is dangerously easy to drink.
Wine-wise, there’s a well-curated selection that favours interesting bottles over safe bets, chosen to stand up to spice rather than disappear next to it.
Why Go
Soho isn’t exactly overflowing with Thai restaurants, and it’s hard to get in the best spots. Khao Bird offers a Northern Thai perspective that is unafraid to push flavour combinations that aren’t instantly familiar or comfortingly authentic. Go with an open mind, expect the menu to look a little different next time you visit, and lean into the chaos.
Key Information
Address | 24 Brewer St, London W1F 0SN
For more information | khaobird.com
