Well this was always going to be a big one. The teaming up of David Carter (Manteca, Smokestak, Agora/OMA) and Sertaç Dirik of Mangal II fame was a long time on the rumour mill, and now the pair have finally opened Kid in Soho. It’s a beautiful space, a sleek corner site on Frith Street and Bateman Street, with two dining rooms, lots of exposed brickwork, cosy banquettes, sexy lighting, and terracotta shades. At its heart is an open kitchen and counter with a flame-licked open grill in the centre, where chefs carefully move meats and vegetables towards the fire. Downstairs is a wine room, private dining room, and Kid’s own on-site bakery.
Eat This
From that bakery come two breads that are going to be the lynchpin of almost everyone’s meal at Kid. There’s the Wildfarmed Grilled Pide and the Tombik Pide, and you’ll want to get one of each alongside a few of the dips – there’s a ridiculously good hummus topped with fried chickpeas, and the taramasalata is also knockout, coming with crisp slices of fried Roscoff onion and capers. Don’t miss the snack of Kid sucuk either, which comes with a lovely grilled peach ketchup.
From the small plates, the İçli Köfte, a slow braise of aged ex-dairy beef, roasted onions and grape molasses, wrapped inside a bulgur shell, and served on a bed of chilli yoğurt feels like the essential order, closely followed by the grilled quail. There’s also a great dish of lamb belly and sweetbreads, the headline ingredients almost upstaged by the amazing grilled onion salad that lies beneath.
From the wood oven, using traditional clay‐pot tandır cooking, comes braised goat kid with freekeh – a dish that Sertaç learnt to cook with his father in their family holiday home in Didim along the Aegean coast. It’s a brilliant dish, advertised as for two to share but in truth could easily do more. We were a group of four, so had the luxury of being able to try this and still have room for the grill dishes, but if you’re coming as a two you might want to consider saving the kid goat for second visit.
Because you can’t really skip the grill section in a restaurant like this can you? The perfect order is the familiar comfort of an exemplary Adana Kofte, plus the ever so slightly more chef-y Lamb Lokma, Cornish lamb saddle, rolled and grilled, and served with an ezme of roast garlic and sivri peppers.
To finish there is of course traditional Turkish tea and coffee as well as Raki. Desserts include baklava with caradamom, cherry and almond, and, our favourite, the mountain tea rice pudding with orange blossom.
Drink This
Excellent cocktails to start (check out the Şeftali Margarita: Peach, Tequila, Citrus) and an extensive wine list of Turkish, Armenian, and Georgian wines.
Why Go
Modern Turkish cooking from one of the city’s brightest young talents, in a smart site in the heart of Soho. File it under must-visit!
Key Information
Address | 53-55 Frith St, London W1D 4SJ
For more information | kid.london
