Plants still take centre stage, with some new additions
After finding success in Notting Hill (including a listing in the Michelin guide), founder Irina Linovich and chef Daniel Watkins (ex-Acme Fire Cult) have opened a second Holy Carrot site in Spitalfields. The new location continues to showcase the fermentation techniques, low-waste approach and live fire cookery that the restaurant has become known for, but the biggest talking point is that this branch of Holy Carrot isn’t exclusively vegan, with dairy and eggs now appearing on the menu.
Linovich said they’ve been added to create a more inclusive dining experience and though it seems to have ruffled a few feathers amongst the vegan community, it’s reflective of the decline in veganism, and this new approach feels fitting for the bistro vibe of the site. It’s worth pointing out that the OG Holy Carrot is still fully plant-based.
Eat This
It’s also worth saying that dairy and eggs have been gently incorporated into the Spitalfields menu, so most of it does remain vegan. It’s a testament to Daniel’s knowledge of fermentation and live fire skill that he’s able to extract so much flavour and create so much complexity with still a largely plant-based ingredient pool.
The koji-cured vegetables with tofu and pickles is the perfect example of this, where carrots and celeriac have been brined, smoked, dried and sliced like charcuterie, complete with the same slightly chewy mouthfeel you get from salami.
Textures play a big role across the rest of the menu. Delicate creamy English ricotta acts as a foil to bitter radicchio and truffle koji honey; hazelnuts add bite to yielding coal-roasted leeks and smoked carrot hot sauce; and tempeh and smoked tofu transforms into a crispy schnitzel with celeriac remoulade and Cafe de Paris butter.
Aside from the eggs and dairy, the other major new addition to this Holy Carrot has been pizzettas, made with a protein-rich, koji-fermented dough, Wildfarmed grains and silken tofu – a real Japanese–Italian mash-up. The flatbreads are light and airy, and come with a variety of seasonal toppings, like the ultimate spring combo of courgette, peas, and wild garlic.
Desserts are pure crowdpleasers. There’s a sharing tiramisu for three that sounds great for a group, the chocolate cremeux with malt caramel is rich and indulgent, and the no-waste lemon posset with torched Italian meringue is a zinger.
Drink This
Like the food, the cocktails are a celebration of smoke, spice and heat. They’re clean and well-balanced, particularly the Spice (Tropical Eminente rum with apricot, ginger, apple, honey and vanilla) and the Citrus (Belvedere with lacto-fermented grapefruit and lemon). The mocktails and homemade softies all sound good too – unsurprisingly, given the fermentation focus, Holy Carrot brews its own kombucha but there’s also a no-waste carrot molasses and tonic spritz, a dill-infused matcha and clarified coconut creation, and a no-waste rhubarb and tarragon soda.
Why Go
The bistro menu is accessible whilst also being incredibly creative – Daniel is showcasing just how impactful vegetable dishes can be and how waste ingredients can be transformed into something tasty. The space, designed by Studio Toogood, also looks lovely too, with a dreamy hand-painted mushroom mural, lines and candlelight giving it a romantic feel in the evenings. One to go to whether you’re a vegan or not.
Key Information
Address | 61-63 Brushfield Street, London, E1 6AA
For more information | holycarrot.co.uk
