We’ve had Georgia on our mind for a long time – in fact we had a big trip planned there for April 2020 and we all know how that played out
However, things are now back to normal and to make things even easier there’s not one but two new direct flights to Tbilisi from BA and EasyJet. Georgia as a country is still pretty unknown by the masses; we knew the dumplings, the cheese breads and, of course, the wine, but we had no idea about the breadth of dishes, the warm people, and the big nightlife vibes.
We spent most of our time in Tbilisi, eating, drinking, eating, drinking, and eating some more. We were surprised by how fresh the food is, the amount of herbs they put in all the broths and salads, the sour plum sauces, and spicy ajika – flavour bombs, which in a roundabout way, reminded us of SE Asian food. We were also surprised by the sheer amount of cheese they eat (it’s in a lot of dishes) and walnuts too, which add depth to the dips and sauces. No olive oil is used, only nut and seed oils.
Then there’s the wine. Georgia is widely recognised as the birthplace of wine, with archaeological evidence suggesting winemaking activities date back 8,000 years – they have been knocking out low intervention “amber” (orange) wines, aged in qvevri underground for all those years. What’s more, they protect their wine history so all wines you try are made with indigenous grapes.
Here’s how we spent five packed days eating, drinking and exploring.
Craft Wine Restaurant
Our first stop, fresh off the flight, and one of the highlights of the trip. This was the perfect intro to Georgian food: an epic spread of dips, cheese bread, chicken in garlic milk (shkmeruli, which quickly became a fave), mushrooms in bazhe (a walnut sauce), and, naturally, amber wine. All served up in a beautiful, welcoming space.
Stamba
A hotel (and much more) housed in a sprawling former Soviet publishing house, Stamba nails the balance between gritty and glamorous (think Wes Anderson meets Berlin in the Caucasus). Inside you’ll find a concept store, a chocolate factory, and some of the city’s best food and drink. Swing by for a cocktail in the leafy garden, or check out Warehouse, the natural wine bar now headed up by a former Noma sommelier. Don’t leave without grabbing a few bottles – their own-label wines from regenerative farm Udabno are great, and the prices to-go are some of the best in the city.
Kakhelebi
A humble roadside spot along the Kakheti Highway serving up traditional Georgian fare. The family-run restaurant uses organic produce from their own lands in the Alazani Valley – vineyard, orchard, farm and all. The khinkali (soup dumplings) here were the best we had – juicy, meaty and rich – and if you don’t finish them, they’ll fry the leftovers for a crispy encore. Don’t miss the house-made sour plum sauce either, it comes bottled and ready to bring home.
Pheasant’s Tears
Natural wine fans might already know the name – Pheasant’s Tears is one of the most iconic producers in Georgia. Their restaurant in the charming old town of Sighnaghi hosts regular supras (traditional Georgian feasts), where the food and wine come thick and fast. We worked our way through a rolling menu of simple, fresh dishes, all paired with their wines made the traditional way, fermented in beeswax-lined clay qvevri buried underground. We even got to try (and buy) some unlabelled stuff straight from the tanks. Super supra, indeed.
Sasadilo Coca-Cola
Set in an old Coca-Cola bottling factory, this no-frills canteen serves up massive portions at excellent prices. The kebabs are great, but the hearty stews are where it’s at, especially the lamb with tarragon and green plums. Order a bottle of Tarkhuna (a vivid green, tarragon soda) to wash it all down. If you overdid it on the chacha (the lethal Georgian spirit which comes in at around 40% – 70%) the night before, this is the perfect stop.
Dezerter Bazaar & Dezerter Vintage
For bargain spices, cheeses, sauces – and the odd vintage Kappa tracksuit – hit up Dezerter Bazaar. It’s been a trading hub since the early 1900s and still buzzes with energy. Perfect for picking up last-minute edible souvenirs and cheap vintage clothing.
Shavi Lomi
Set in a beautiful old house, Shavi Lomi is the brainchild of celeb chef Meriko Gubeladze and is credited with revolutionising Georgian cuisine when it opened in 2011. Still packed today, the menu offers a modern spin on traditional dishes – try the signature ghobi (a bowl of delish dips, cheese and breads), the shkmeruli, and lamb in cheesy rice. There’s a great wine list, plenty of house chacha, and a laidback vibe that makes it feel like you’re at a friend’s dinner party.
Apotheka
One of the city’s most unique cocktail bars, Apotheka is housed in a restored early 20th-century pharmacy. The original wooden medicine cabinets are still in place, now filled with spirits instead of tinctures, and murals of herbs still line the walls. The bartenders, kitted out in white lab coats, serve up signature cocktails like Penicillin and Vitamin C. It’s part-speakeasy, part-time capsule, and very much worth a visit.
Oro
Oro specialises in Megrelian cuisine from the Samegrelo region, which is known for its bold spices, particularly ajika, a punchy mix of chilli, garlic and walnuts. We had a dreamy, leisurely lunch in the courtyard featuring a ton of cheese dishes, including their signature house-made fresh cheese. Even dessert was cheese-based – dumplings filled with cheese and served with figs and honey. Order the crispy mushrooms with tarragon, the cornmeal cheese bread, the beef stew, and the kupati (offal sausage).
Ghebi
Named after the Racha region, Ghebi is a 24-hour basement restaurant making it a go‑to for late‑night diners and revellers. Go for the vibes, shit beer, chacha, jukebox and soak it all up with some huge plates of dumplings and epic chips topped with cabbage. Those double carbs can save lives.
Where We Stayed
Telegraph Hotel
One of Tbilisi’s newest openings, The Telegraph Hotel is housed in the city’s former post and telegraph office. The grand old building features high ceilings, marble detailing, and sleek mid-century furniture. Our room was massive, with a balcony overlooking the city, a dining table for eight (because why not?), a proper bathtub, and Diptyque products. There’s a pretty plant-filled bar and a few other drinking and dining spots to explore on-site. Sadly, the rooftop wasn’t open yet – but we’ve heard great things are planned.
Why Go
Five days wasn’t nearly enough. We barely scratched the surface and we’re itching to go back already. Take a big suitcase – you’ll want to bring back bottles of wine and maybe even a chacha or three – and go now, while it’s still under-the-radar and excellent value. Trust us, Georgia won’t stay a secret for long…
