Four Seasons Luxury, Minus The White Lotus Crowd

Proof that camping can be seriously luxe

Four Seasons has famously been the hotel partner for The White Lotus, including its Koh Samui island property for season three. Four Seasons actually has three other hotels in Thailand though, including Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and the rather unique Tented Camp Golden Triangle. 

Up in Thailand’s far north, where the borders of Laos, Myanmar and Thailand blur into one another, Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle feels a long way from the beaches of Samui. The remote setting and natural beauty may be just what you are craving, though I’m not sure many of the White Lotus characters from season three would have lasted very long up here. 

Hidden deep in bamboo jungle on the banks of the Ruak River, you arrive at the Four Seasons on a long-tail boat ride, which picks you up down river on the mighty Mekong. The pier is about an hour north of Chiang Rai, or a four-and-a-half hour drive from Chiang Mai, which is what we did.

The camp itself is made up of just 15 safari-style tents, but don’t let the word “tent” fool you. This is Four Seasons after all, and everything here leans heavily into the ultra-luxe end of the spectrum, inspired by luxury African safaris. Think polished teak floors, wicker furniture, clawfoot bathtubs and a mix of antiques that give each tent a sense of old-world adventure. Canvas walls and jungle sounds keep you connected to the surroundings, but the comforts are firmly five-star of course. 

Each tent comes with its own outdoor deck, complete with a copper tub that looks out over the river towards Myanmar on the opposite bank. The views are pretty spectacular – just thick jungle, mountains and birds with no real trace of civilisation. The 15 tents are spread out over a pretty big area too, with two sides of the camp being connected by a decidedly Indiana Jones-style suspension bridge, so even your neighbours feel far away. 

In fact, at certain times of day you’re more likely to see an elephant than another human. The camp works closely with the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation, which provides sanctuary to a small group of rescued elephants who roam the grounds below the tents. Importantly, this isn’t about riding or performances; the hotel thankfully stopped offering rides a few years ago, and the focus is on observation and care. Guests can walk alongside them with their mahouts, learn about their histories, and even help with feeding.

Other activities include bamboo rafting along the river, and visits to local villages where you can try your hand at traditional crafts like weaving. We particularly liked the hike with a local guide, which takes you through the surrounding hills, pineapple farms and little villages before looping back to camp. Or if you prefer to stay put, you can potter around the camp itself, swim in the jungle-clad pool, or have a treatment at the open-air spa which offers up traditional Thai massage and beauty treatments. 

The food is very good here too. The main restaurant is Nong Yao, where the kitchen turns out a mix of Northern Thai and Burmese dishes that reflect the region’s cross-border influences. Expect rich curries, grilled meats and plenty of punchy herbs and spices. Best of all though is the Kanthok private dining experience, which takes place in a pavilion by the pool. Inspired by the ancient Lanna Kingdom, the sharing style menu is served on a ‘kanthok’, a round rattan tray that is a hallmark of northern Thai dining culture. We loved the fiery spicy dishes here, which included ‘Lanna’ Style Sausage; Northern Style Chicken Soup with Local Herbs; Northern Style Thai Pork Curry; ‘Lanna’ Style Minced Pork with Fresh Camp Garden Herbs; and Wok-fried Chinese Kale.

If you’re looking for a fly-and-flop beach break, then best to head to Koh Samui. But if you want something that feels a bit more adventurous and off-grid, then Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle is a great place to escape the crowds. 

Key Information

Address | Vieng, 499 MOO1 T. Vieng, Chiang Saen District, Chiang Rai 57150, Thailand
For more information | fourseasons.com

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