Duchy occupies the Phipp Street site that was Leroy, and it’s run by two people who met there, restaurateur Alex Grant and chef Simon Shand. The premise is the old Duchy of Savoy, the territory that once ran from Lyon to Milan and Geneva down to Nice, which in practice means Alpine cooking and Riviera cooking sharing a menu that shifts daily depending on what the farmers send. Order the steak tartare; the Herdwick Barnsley chop too, both brilliant. Service is great, the soundtrack is vibes and the wine list of Savoie and Ligurian growers is worth exploring – there’s always some belters by the glass.
18 Phipp Street, London EC2A 4NU
duchyrestaurant.com
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