designer profile | luke rooney

London-based womenswear designer, Luke Rooney is showing at OnOff’s on-schedule show at LFW this year. Not afraid to shy away from bright colours, texture, print and embellishments, we’re expecting some fun designs for SS18.

Who inspired you to get into fashion and set your own label?

I don’t know if I can say I was inspired to get into fashion. I love everything history, and I think I was seduced by fashion. Looking at old documentaries about Bowie to Quant to the glamorous and raw photography of Helmut Newton I was always really excited by the imagery and I i felt it was inviting me in to experience.

Talk us through your design process.

My process first and foremost starts with research. I will spend days upon days scouring through books and watching films for something or someone to spark my interest. I find this to be the most difficult part of a collection as you need to make snap decisions and have conviction, Once I have edited my research down (which is way more challenging than the initial research), I will then draw and sketch ideas from silhouette, print, shape and details to embroidery and painted samples. Once these are 1/3 of the way final I will drape and pattern cut the start of the collection to give me some room to play around and be flexible with looks.

Describe your typical day.

A typical day in my studio depends on the time of year. If it’s research time it’s being sat at my desk with pen, paper and lots of films and books with spider grams being created. If its on the run up to the show its all day sat at the sewing machine with a 1980s soundtrack and plenty of coffee.

What have been your career highlights so far and what do you have planned for the future?

My career highlight would have to be showing On schedule during London Fashion Week. My plan is to start to garner interest from stockists and work on sales for the future.

And finally what’s your favourite thing about LFW?

My favourite thing about LFW… The clothing.