Dalla Review | “Almost Too Cool for School”

Dalla opened in late 2023 on Morning Lane in Hackney

It took over a space that had previously been home to a handful of hyped restaurants that sadly didn’t stick around. These guys, however, are clearly doing something right as nearly two years on, it’s still hard to score a table. The small restaurant is picture perfect, thanks to owner Gennaro Leone – he also owns Spazio Leone where he sells the 20th century Italian art and furniture he’s collected. The interiors are simple but chic, much like the food and wine on offer.

Eat This

The kitchen is headed up by Mitchell Damot, formerly of Burro e Salvia and P. Franco. His approach is rooted in nostalgia, bringing back old recipes, using amazing produce, and presenting them beautifully on the plate. No gimmicks, just good quality, honest Italian food. We thoroughly enjoyed the frittatina, essentially a huge omelette stuffed with courgette flowers and a drizzle of balsamic. Then there were the cubes of calzagatti with frigionne and pancetta: crisp-edged, creamy polenta bites wrapped in salty ham.

We also tried the raw beef with truffle and egg mayo (an Italian-leaning steak tartare of sorts) and some freshly baked bread to mop it all up. Pastas are made in-house daily, so don’t skip them, especially the tonnarello alla carbonara and the pansotti liguri – fat little pasta parcels stuffed and served with a nutty walnut pesto.

Dessert? Tiramisu, of course. Surprisingly light. 

Drink This

There’s a short list of Italian wines by the glass. We tried the prosecco, which fell a bit flat (literally), but quickly pivoted to a bottle of Jacopo Stigliano, a low-intervention skin-contact number that hit the spot and suited the food perfectly.

Why Go 

It’s a beautiful restaurant with faultless food, pleasing on the eye and the plate, and a kind of cinematic charm that feels straight out of A Bigger Splash. When the light floods through the windows and the music hums just right, it’s a world away from the busy Hackney streets just outside. A timeless spot that, hopefully, will become an institution.

Key Information

Address | 120-122 Morning Ln, London E9 6LH
For more information | dallarestaurant.com

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