Eggs have been breaking out of their breakfast shackles and creeping their way through the day and onto dinner menus across the city of late, and with a distinctly retro flavour. Dishes like eggs mayonnaise and devilled eggs may make you think of Seventies dinner parties and a time where suspending food in aspic was considered the height of culinary sophistication but here, now, in 2023, the combo of egg and mayo is cool, chic, simply eggs-quisite. How long the ouef remains that way is another matter as devilled eggs are slated for the opening menu of Jamie Oliver’s comeback restaurant in Covent Garden. So crack on with the best egg dishes in London before they cycle back out of fashion again.
Bistro Freddie
Modelled on a classic French bistro, of course Shoreditch hotspot Bistro Freddie is gonna have egg mayonnaise on the menu. Two slivers of anchovy, just the right amount of mayo, c’est parfait!
Jackson Boxer at The Corner
Another egg and anchovy combo, this time with a flourish of red from peppers and a crispy potato hat to top it all off from Jackson Boxer in his new Selfridges restaurant.
Lulu’s
Lulu’s, the lil sis to Llewelyn’s in Herne Hill, is a pitch-perfect wine bar so naturally it has devilled eggs on the menu. Start with these, move onto the focaccia, basically order the whole menu, and then grab a bottle to take home.
Solis
Ostensibly a South American chicken and steak grill restaurant, Arcade Food Hall Battersea’s newest resident Solis also has one of the most interesting egg dishes going – huevos rellenos with tuna mayo and Argentinian condiment salsa golf.
Baudry Greene
Thought dippy eggs and soldiers were only for the morning? Think again because Baudry Greene, the new spot from the Parsons and 10 Cases crew, has truffled egg and toast on its bar snack menu.
Bébé Bob
The three Cs – chicken, caviar, champagne – may steal the headlines at Bébé Bob, the younger sibling of Bob Bob Ricard, but before there was chicken, there was egg. Anchovy egg mayonnaise to be exact, with orange-yolked eggs, Cantabrian anchovies and dijon mayo.
Whole Beast
Whole Beast may be best known for its nose-to-tail cookery but it’s come through with one hell of an egg snack. Inspired by a spicy pickled egg snacking sesh in the pub, this version features fermented hot sauce, Henderson’s Relish and Viking salt.
Rita’s
Gabriel Pryce is a master of taking classic snacks and turning them up a notch, a spicy notch – see jalapeno popper gildas – and he’s done the same with devilled eggs, adding a fermented chilli paste to turn them into hot bean devilled eggs. These have been a Rita’s mainstay and with good reason.