A city retreat with a view and very good tea
There’s something cinematic about arriving in Mong Kok. The streets don’t sleep, signs stack in neon, the traffic hums and right in the thick of it, you find Cordis towering above the bustle. Cordis was once the Langham Place Hotel; it’s had a facelift or two since then but the bones remain strong. The building is modern but softened with thoughtful interiors and plenty of art. Lots of hotels say they do art but Cordis lives and breathes it, and each floor is its own gallery – there’s even a guidebook in your room that explains every piece and artist featured. A lovely, tactile way to bring meaning to your wanderings around the hotel’s corridors.
We checked into a one bedroom suite, which came with a proper sense of space. Not something you take for granted in Hong Kong. There were two living areas, a handy little kitchenette, and a bed that felt like a cloud with a city view. Speaking of, those views are no joke. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the skyline like a living postcard. The bathroom had a touch of theatre to it too, with a glass wall looking into the bedroom and a deep tub made for long soaks above the city.
We had breakfast in the hotel’s exclusive members’ lounge, which gave the whole experience a more relaxed, almost residential feel. The buffet was a smart mix of Chinese and Western classics, so we did what any sensible person would do and loaded up on dumplings, eggs cooked to order, and multiple cups of strong, sweet Hong Kong milk tea. Sitting up there, watching the city wake up through the windows while chatting to the warm and curious staff about the day ahead, it felt like a calm little ritual before diving back into the buzz below.
Then there’s Ming Court. If you take nothing else from this review, take this; book a table. This is not just a hotel restaurant, it’s an institution. Ming Court is all about refined, sustainable Cantonese cooking that honours tradition but isn’t stuck in it. The menu is packed with exceptional dishes; roasted Wagyu cheek braised with aged tangerine peel, crab shell stuffed and crisped to perfection, turnip cakes made with produce grown by the chef himself. Wine pairings from their 300 strong cellar take things even further. The service was faultless and the room elegant but never stiff. This was the high point of our stay and one of the most memorable meals we’ve had in Hong Kong.
Cordis isn’t short on food and drink options. You’ve also got Alibi, a modern European bar and restaurant with a focus on seasonal, social dining. There’s The Place, an all day buffet that spans everything from sushi to curries, and The Garage Bar, which serves craft beer and cocktails from inside vintage Citroën vans on the terrace. You could check in and eat somewhere different each night and not even leave the building.
We also joined a wine tasting session in the hotel’s private lounge. Relaxed, generous on the pours, and paired with smart little snacks. It’s part of a series of activities for in-house guests that are surprisingly thoughtful. You can start your day with Tai Chi by the rooftop pool, take a guided tour through Mong Kok’s markets, or unwind with sunset yoga overlooking the city skyline. For something more personal, there’s also a self-guided art trail through the hotel’s collection of over 1,500 contemporary works.
Between exploring the city and trying to eat everything in it, we also made time to dip into the wellness side of things. The rooftop pool on the 42nd floor is a standout; It’s heated, has underwater music, and comes with popsicles and a view. There’s a jacuzzi up there too if you’re more about the lounging than laps. And the Chuan Spa is where you go to properly switch off. Inspired by traditional Chinese medicine and the five elements, the treatments are holistic, soothing, and all delivered with that quiet Cordis polish. The gym’s open 24 hours and includes Hong Kong’s first circuit-training focused space, in case you get the urge to train with a skyline view at 3am.
In a city where luxury often comes wrapped in either flashy gimmicks or cold minimalism, Cordis walks its own path. Stylish without being try hard and elevated but grounded. And in a location that keeps you in the thick of it while offering a soft landing each night. If you’re heading to Hong Kong and want a stay that feels like both a base and a bit of an escape, Cordis delivers. And then some…
555 Shanghai St, Mong Kok, Hong Kong
cordishotels.com
