Cambodia often gets overlooked compared to its neighbours Thailand and Vietnam
While Angkor Wat rightfully steals the spotlight, the country is too often defined by its tragic past under the Khmer Rouge. Beyond the Killing Fields and S-21, not enough stories make it out about this incredible Southeast Asian destination. We’ll admit — we were guilty of this too.
On our first visit, we barely scratched the surface, focusing on war history and tales of a lost food culture, without really considering the richness that came before. But Cambodia is so much more than its past, and this time we left feeling we had really uncovered some of the layers that make this country truly unforgettable…
Phnom Penh
We started in Phnom Penh, the country’s bustling capital, where we spent three nights immersing ourselves in the food culture, the chaos of the street markets, and night food stalls. One of our favourite finds was Sopath, a tiny shop that specialises in Num Banh Chok, lightly fermented rice noodles served with three different broths and a tray bundled with fresh herbs. We also enjoyed dinner at Kravanh, a more “upmarket” local restaurant set in a beautiful colonial-era mansion. There we sampled local sour beef sausage, interesting salads – which the team discovered on their travels of the country – and fish amok.
Our final sit-down meal was in Romdeng, a social enterprise run by Friends-International, which helps disadvantaged children find stable employment. We ate sour pickled lime and chicken soup, aubergine and minced pork, a spicy beef salad and more. There’s an abundance of street food too – just look for the places with the lines of mopeds and longest queues. Though one thing to note is food hygiene for street food especially isn’t great in Cambodia as it hasn’t historically been taught (though that is slowly changing) so if you have a big trip the next day you might want to play it safe…
Chef Nak’s Homestay
After climatising in Phnom Penh we headed to Chef Nak’s homestay, a serene escape on the outskirts of the city dedicated to preserving and celebrating traditional Cambodian cuisine. Ros Rotanak aka Chef Nak, is a passionate advocate for Khmer food heritage and a bundle of big positive energy, determined not to let Khmer food die out. Chef Nak’s homestay features two beautifully restored wooden village houses that were relocated from the countryside and painstakingly
reconstructed so that they too could be preserved. It feels like a world away from the honking horns and frenetic energy of Phnom Penh, offering a peaceful space where food and culture take centre stage.
Chef Nak and her small, all-female team craft incredible meals using organic, locally sourced ingredients, bringing forgotten flavours and techniques back to life—think fragrant curries, delicate herb-filled soups, and dishes rich in history and tradition. She’s more than just a chef; she’s a storyteller, eager to share insights into the origins of Khmer cuisine and answer any question you might have. For food lovers looking to deepen their understanding beyond restaurants and street stalls, this is an experience not to be missed.
Island Time | Koh Rong & Koh Rong Sanloem
From Phnom Penh, we set off for the islands—and honestly, it’s a mystery why more people don’t know about Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. Often called the ‘Maldives of Cambodia’, these islands are pure paradise: powdery white sand, ridiculously clear turquoise waters, and (for now, at least) minimal development. They’re an absolute must-visit. One piece of advice? Avoid Sihanoukville at all costs. Once a laid-back coastal town, it’s now a chaotic, overdeveloped mess—a cautionary tale of what happens when rapid development goes unchecked. Fingers crossed the same fate doesn’t reach the islands.
This was our second time on Koh Rong, and while things have definitely changed over the last decade (yes, there are now cars), the pace of development has been thankfully slow—partly due to COVID. We then hopped over to Koh Rong Sanloem, which is even less developed and small enough to explore on foot. One of our favourite spots? Lazy Beach, a ridiculously chill stretch of sand perfect for unwinding.
For an experience even more chill, we recommend checking into Song Saa, Cambodia’s answer to an eco-conscious tropical paradise on its own private island. Three nights is enough to truly relax, and you can read our review from a previous visit here.
Wrapping Up in Siem Reap
Our final stop was Siem Reap to visit Angkor Wat. We’ve done a lot of temples in our time, but nothing quite compares to Siem Reap. There’s no better place to stay than Amansara, King Sihanouk’s old guest residence where Jackie O famously stayed during her visit to the city. Siem Reap itself is super chilled, and with visitor numbers still lower post-COVID, now is a perfect time to go.
For exploring Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples we suggest going early; and if you’re staying at Amansara you can take their tour which includes a sunrise visit and a trad Khmer breakfast at their village house in the Angkor grounds. We’d recommend visiting Angkor Wat at least twice—once at sunrise and again before sunset, when the crowds thin out and the light hits just right. And of course, there are so many other temples to explore. One of our favourite ways to see them? Hiring bikes and temple-hopping at your own pace. There are even some off-road cycle paths you can do where you barely see another soul, except maybe for a big snake.
Back in town there’s plenty of good Cambodian food to be had, from juicy mangos to mi kola noodles and more. It’s the kind of place where you can slow down, grab an ice-cold Battambang beer (made from locally grown rice), sit by the river after a long day exploring and start Googling flats, imagining what life could be like living here.
We loved Cambodia this time round, and there’s still so much left of it to explore. We referenced this handy 30 Cambodia foods article, plus Chef Nak’s knowledge and own research on Cambodian food and we felt we hardly scratched the surface. Who knows, maybe we’ll move to Siem Reap next year – see you there?